When fashion week approaches its end, it's always the same mental scenario: I have lots of fashion show pictures bubbling in my head. Then, I keep having the same fashion hesitations over and over again, trying to determine THE designer who had the best story to tale.
At this stage, I still can't clearly say who was my favorite fashion story as I have a long list of "fashion favorites". Actually, I can make a selection of what are in my opinion, the best fashion week performances: it's a mix of creative fashion concepts erected at the image of Elegance in a background of non-academic styles.
Galliano Men Fashion Week F/W 2011-2012
John Galliano never lacked inspiration. For Dior or for his own fashion label, the designer prides his collections with a strong identity of Style in a very inspired background. That's probably one of the reasons why his audience always keeps vivid memories of his fashion performances which stand apart from any Fashion Academism.
This season, for his F/W Collection 2011-2012, John Galliano inspired men fashion closets with Rudolf Noureïev's Heritage : From his URSS escape to his arrival in Paris, the Russian ballet dancer invested Paris fashion week podiums. Galliano invites him on stage to transgenderize Male fashion closets, mixing ballet influences with basic male fashion pieces.
Galliano silhouettes meet Raspoutin's influences and ballet dancer's attitudes. This Men collection mixes masculine influences with a firmly assumed Ballet dancer Style: tights, leggings or make-up powders flirt with "Swinging London" Styles, Dandy Jackets, dodgy ranger boots, customed-ties styles, fashionably-creepy moustaches and over-sized barbs.
Today it's official: Galliano Men is a traveler who dares to assume his femininity to firmly declare to the world his male identity !
Paris Women Fashion Week F/W 2011 2012
Paris Women fashion week has always been a festival of well-fitted fashion performances. My love for accessories drives me to have a careful attention to Louis Vuitton's 2011 2012 F/W's Collection.
This season Louis Vuitton models are Call-Girls with Style : Marc Jacobs takes us to a universe of Fetishism where Vuitton bags suit Extreme circumstances. Showcasing Call-Girls in Vuitton fashion show is part of fashion Extravaganza stories. Scenarizing Fetishism in using walking-Call-Girls requires more than Fashion designer talents to assume the whole thing with brio. BRAVO !
Marc Jacobs gives to Vuitton bags -and other Vuitton accessories- the leading role of this fantasized movie.
Still keeping a traditional taste for the codes making Vuitton a label of fashion distinction, the designer conjugates to its extremes the ingredients of Fetishism : Leather Belts, vinyl corsets, transparency are so many accessories in Vuitton's Dangerous Seduction Tale.
This season, once again, Marc Jacobs reaffirmed his status : More than a fashion designer, he scenaries and rocks Louis Vuitton stages with the same willing to respect the codes of "The Old Vuitton Lady".
My love for leather and for Walking-Fashion-Armies drives me to have a special consideration for Gareth Pugh's collection.
Gareth Pugh's Models still have outstanding looks, their silhouettes are very structured. This season, the designer put drops of bluish which adds volume and tenderness to the Elegance of silk. It added drops of Romanticism to a collection which is often placed under the sign of Black color. However, this painting fantasy just recreated a Neo-Romantico punk style only Gareth Pugh can perform.
I like Gareth Pugh the same way I like Rick Owens, Thierry Mugler and Ricardo Tisci. The only concern I have when I 'm looking at Gareth Pugh's collection is related to those clearly visible similarities with Ricardo Tisci and Rick Owens collections. Copied and Pasted? Who knows? It just requestionned my understanding of Gareth Pugh's identity. However, it would be unfair to limit Gareth Pugh's collection to those considerations especially when the designer invites us to a Festival of silk (and I love the silk!).
Black silhouettes are still as Futuristic as before. Models are modern amazons and I like that! We are far from the "Shut-Up-And-Walk" modeling concept. Actually Gareth Pugh's fashion scene overcame this selective autism fashion stage : Gareth's silhouettes are alive fashion souls and they even speak.
I like Gareth sense of optical measure. The designer adds to his collection games of superpositions, mixing materials and colors, giving a three dimensional perspective to his silhouettes. It's part of Gareth Pugh's Futurist identity and it's what I like the most.
Victor and RolfVictor and Rolf Army has enough character to speak for itself :
