"This is England" is one of those beautiful films which depicts the evolution of Punk style in the early 80's. Most of Punk codes are presented. Characters don't have colored shaved hairs , because they belong to another group of Punk movement which is more extremist in it's style and attitude. They have shaved hairs , they are in rebellion. The movie offers us a perfect portrait of what punk is. In this film the line between Punk and Skinhead is very low . At this time , punk fashion was mainly oriented as a lifestyle before being a fashion style. It was more about a way of thinking than a way of dressing. The way they dress explained their relation with society.
What first defined as an anti-fashion street youth culture, turned into a real fashion style. Black Leather, chains, punk colored hairs were empowering revendicative slogans such as No future. It was Sex Pistols time and Zandra Rhodes was revealing to the world her first punk collection.Music changed and was giving birth to a new fashion style. Punk is born !
Punks got garments from charity and thrift shop. They used clothes to attract attention and to express themselves. They refashioned clothes their own way. Defaced print, whilst torn fabrics or frayed edges were considered as shocking at this time. Punk fashion emerged from a lifestyle and it changed all the society. Trousers were torn to make appear laddered tights. Doc Marten's, safety pins and chains accessorized the outfits. Punks really wanted to appear as rebellious and shocking as possible. They rebelled against Establishment.
Punk fashion is nourished by so many elements . It's not only Doc Marten's, tattoos, colored hairs which cotributed to ignite the punk fashion. It' s more than that !
When you'll discover it, you'll see that Punk fashion is everywhere in today's fashion industry. It impulsed a new evolution of creativity and really contributed to fashion events ( cf. Exhibition FIT New York , Dark Glamour).
Punk aestheticism is embodied by a lot of different elements.
For clothes: the Leather rocker jacket and customized blazer are one of the common outfits of Punk fashion. Torn Tshirts are part of the daily outfits. They are very popular and most of the time they are torn on purpose! This outfits could be found on "SEX" store, which was one of the most popular Punk garment store. Materials are either in jeans or in leather.
Jeans trousers are most of the time "slim fit". Baggies are for Skater Punk dressing .
Collage is part of clothes. Jamie Reid impulsed the technique to customise garments. He's one of the most popular Punk artist of this time. His artistical work is full of pasted symbols (newspapers, advertisings...).
He played a very important role in the evolution of Punk aestheticism. Punks borrowed the technique for customizing their clothes. Punk fashion is the most dynamic fashion time for slogans. They are on Tshirt, pins, jackets...
Bracelet Leather
.
Punk womens oriented the way they dress in reaction to 70's traditional fashion style. Therefore they mixed conventional clothes with punk style. Then they wear for example a Ballet Tutu with big mens boots and men blazer . They mixed the feminine side with what was commonly used in mens outfits. So today's fashionable "Boyfriend Jacket" found it's origins in Punk style.
Bin bags become dresses in Punk dressings, eye-liners are weared by mens and womens. At this time it was shocking! Leather, ribbons are common because of the connection to bondage practices and SM. So Punk fashion style evoluted through the time.
New subcultures appeared in the punk movement. Each sub movement had it's own dressing identity: Hard-core Punk ( chains, colored hairs), Anarcho-Punk, Gothic-Punk ( they include corsets and make up in their style, horror pictures accessorize their T shirt), Skate Punk (most of the time he's a skate boarder and he wears his hairs short cut, Vans, baggy shorts, jeans), Pop Punk ( wears Dickies pant, and All stars shoes...)
Then there is not only one punk style.
Colored hair-style aimed at rejecting hair 70's trends. Wearing hairs colored was a way to react to leading trends .
When people claimed : "Fuck fashion, Fuck clothes and Fuck you" , it was difficult to declare the existence of a real Punk fashion . At the beginning the punk cultural movement didnt' aimed at creating a fashion style. Behind clothes there are ideas. It was the expression of people difference. First it was based on Rock music. It emerged in the early 70's in USA and England. Punk was expressing through ideology, music , movies, fashion, litterature, visual arts and it varieted through countries and time. South Africa, England , Australia , USA , Japan have been the first Punk scenes of the movement.
Denying the role played by Punk movement in today's fashion industry would be a foolishness ! This period was a rich cultural time , it revealed aesthetic fashion codes. It also inspired designers.
Punk lifestyle contributed to emerge new designers. Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes are one of them. So, Punk fashion has a future in our closets !
Style : Punk designers
Punk movement gave to fashion a real meaning. It makes us understanding fashion as the result of expression. Punks used fashion as a way to make people reacting.
Fashion is capable to change the world. Using it as a way to tell things can change others. Fashion is not only a label story. It' s a way to use a worldwide power to mobilize and to impulse change.
Punk style reminds us that being fashionable implies feeling safe in our body. Labels have a small space in Punk style. Clothes obey to a DO-It-Yourself strategy.
"Fashion is ending but style never ends" used to say Coco Chanel. The Punk movement is an illustration of it: punks people weren't considered as fashionable in the 70's. Nevertheless 40 years later it's still a style which is inspiring. Findind your own way to express by clothes is one of the main goal of fashion.
For clothes: the Leather rocker jacket and customized blazer are one of the common outfits of Punk fashion. Torn Tshirts are part of the daily outfits. They are very popular and most of the time they are torn on purpose! This outfits could be found on "SEX" store, which was one of the most popular Punk garment store. Materials are either in jeans or in leather.
Jeans trousers are most of the time "slim fit". Baggies are for Skater Punk dressing .
Collage is part of clothes. Jamie Reid impulsed the technique to customise garments. He's one of the most popular Punk artist of this time. His artistical work is full of pasted symbols (newspapers, advertisings...).
He played a very important role in the evolution of Punk aestheticism. Punks borrowed the technique for customizing their clothes. Punk fashion is the most dynamic fashion time for slogans. They are on Tshirt, pins, jackets...
Bracelet LeatherPins
. D
oc Marten's shoes
oc Marten's shoesPunk womens oriented the way they dress in reaction to 70's traditional fashion style. Therefore they mixed conventional clothes with punk style. Then they wear for example a Ballet Tutu with big mens boots and men blazer . They mixed the feminine side with what was commonly used in mens outfits. So today's fashionable "Boyfriend Jacket" found it's origins in Punk style.
Bin bags become dresses in Punk dressings, eye-liners are weared by mens and womens. At this time it was shocking! Leather, ribbons are common because of the connection to bondage practices and SM. So Punk fashion style evoluted through the time.
New subcultures appeared in the punk movement. Each sub movement had it's own dressing identity: Hard-core Punk ( chains, colored hairs), Anarcho-Punk, Gothic-Punk ( they include corsets and make up in their style, horror pictures accessorize their T shirt), Skate Punk (most of the time he's a skate boarder and he wears his hairs short cut, Vans, baggy shorts, jeans), Pop Punk ( wears Dickies pant, and All stars shoes...)
Then there is not only one punk style.
Colored hair-style aimed at rejecting hair 70's trends. Wearing hairs colored was a way to react to leading trends .
When people claimed : "Fuck fashion, Fuck clothes and Fuck you" , it was difficult to declare the existence of a real Punk fashion . At the beginning the punk cultural movement didnt' aimed at creating a fashion style. Behind clothes there are ideas. It was the expression of people difference. First it was based on Rock music. It emerged in the early 70's in USA and England. Punk was expressing through ideology, music , movies, fashion, litterature, visual arts and it varieted through countries and time. South Africa, England , Australia , USA , Japan have been the first Punk scenes of the movement.
Denying the role played by Punk movement in today's fashion industry would be a foolishness ! This period was a rich cultural time , it revealed aesthetic fashion codes. It also inspired designers.
Punk lifestyle contributed to emerge new designers. Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes are one of them. So, Punk fashion has a future in our closets !
Style : Punk designers
Punk movement gave to fashion a real meaning. It makes us understanding fashion as the result of expression. Punks used fashion as a way to make people reacting.
Fashion is capable to change the world. Using it as a way to tell things can change others. Fashion is not only a label story. It' s a way to use a worldwide power to mobilize and to impulse change.
Punk style reminds us that being fashionable implies feeling safe in our body. Labels have a small space in Punk style. Clothes obey to a DO-It-Yourself strategy.
"Fashion is ending but style never ends" used to say Coco Chanel. The Punk movement is an illustration of it: punks people weren't considered as fashionable in the 70's. Nevertheless 40 years later it's still a style which is inspiring. Findind your own way to express by clothes is one of the main goal of fashion.
Vivienne Westwood
Punk shoes
Zandra Rhodes
The British designer renewed Great Britain's fashion in the 70's. She contributed to put London fashion in the front row of the international fashion scene. Her early fashion clothes have been considered as outrageous. After that ,she dressed royalty family members such as Diana, consequently she has been legalized by the crowd.
Her personality inspired fashion labels as Versace, Fendi, Dior, Prada...She's the punk fashion godmother and she totally assumes it.
In the early 70's, she introduced elements of Punk fashion in her collection. She made them more Chic .She used large safety pins, gold chains. Versace put those elements in its own collections ( bags , dresses) . Zandra also creates Opera outfits. She's totally involved in today's fashion scene. www.zandrarhodes.com
Trends Punk report
Modern Punky reporter : Anna Piaggi
Who's the most intriguing reporter of the fashion scene? It seems to be difficult to say, but according to me it's Anna Piaggi. The Italian based fashion writer is seen in fashion week front rows . She's a worldwide fashion icon and she write for the best fashion magazines in the world. Her best associates in fashion industry are Karl Lagerfeld and Manolo Blahnik.
She's not one in a million and never will be! Multi language , her style is eclectic . It's the expression of a personal vision of fashion. People call her" the Walking Museum", but she's far away from cliche and non attitude.
Anna Piaggi has it's own universe and she conceptualizes fashion as an Art, and not as an industry. Anna Piaggi is an icon who contributes highlighting fashion strenghts. She gives words to the universal fashion language, she writes notes of a worldwide music. Her style is refreshing and stunningly studied. Each component of it isn't a mistake. Anna makes trends revival!
Who's the most intriguing reporter of the fashion scene? It seems to be difficult to say, but according to me it's Anna Piaggi. The Italian based fashion writer is seen in fashion week front rows . She's a worldwide fashion icon and she write for the best fashion magazines in the world. Her best associates in fashion industry are Karl Lagerfeld and Manolo Blahnik.
She's not one in a million and never will be! Multi language , her style is eclectic . It's the expression of a personal vision of fashion. People call her" the Walking Museum", but she's far away from cliche and non attitude.
Anna Piaggi has it's own universe and she conceptualizes fashion as an Art, and not as an industry. Anna Piaggi is an icon who contributes highlighting fashion strenghts. She gives words to the universal fashion language, she writes notes of a worldwide music. Her style is refreshing and stunningly studied. Each component of it isn't a mistake. Anna makes trends revival!
Anna Piaggi photographed by D.Bailey, dress made by JC de Castelbajac
Anna Piaggi at work