Jean Charles deCastelbajac designed in January a line of garden furniture for FERMOB.The french designer gave a romantic soul to gardens. Harmony with nature, pure lines associated with a delicate Spring flavour. While angels were kissing in our backs , we liked relaxing and looking at the sun. Now it's time to look at angels in the eyes, because they are auctioned by FERMOB. You will be seduced by creativity, chic and elegance. A drop of poetry flavored with flowers is a perfect match for the Spring time. Until the 24th May, you can discover the poetry of colors in a very chic way. Purple, green, white,Pink are whispering. Encrusted Romantic lines are declined with softness in the body corp of chairs . It's time for Romanticism!! Angels just need to fly, and Castelbajac is spreading their wings. You can taste the sound of colors on www.castelbajac-pour-fermob.com. Angels put their most beautiful colored dresses for the event. Don't miss the kaleidoscopic Ballet!
When the most frenchy label arrives in Selfridges , it's giving birth to a kaleidoscopic line of make-up. For the launch of it's new make-up line, Chanel found inspiration in England. The fashion label borrowed the Union Jack just the Big Ben Bell Time of eye-shadows or lip sticks. In July the most frenchy label of the planet gave a British accent to it's make up line: "TheLondon Madness Collection" is a drop of fantasy in the middle of tradition. France is celebrating Great Britain through a limited selection of original products.This is the most fashionable accessorize of the season. Audacity and tradition in a same product that's an amazing combination which gives a never-seen-dimension to Chanel. Beauty is a Blessing ( the Queen told us!), so just go in Selfridges, get the line, don't leave a piece of it behind, but never forget that God save the Lip stick!!!
"This is England" is one of those beautiful films which depicts the evolution of Punk style in the early 80's. Most of Punk codes are presented. Characters don't have colored shaved hairs , because they belong to another group of Punk movement which is more extremist in it's style and attitude. They have shaved hairs , they are in rebellion. The movie offers us a perfect portrait of what punk is. In this film the line between Punk and Skinhead is very low . At this time , punk fashion was mainly oriented as a lifestyle before being a fashion style. It was more about a way of thinking than a way of dressing. The way they dress explained their relation with society.
What first defined as an anti-fashion street youth culture, turned into a real fashion style. Black Leather, chains, punk colored hairs were empowering revendicative slogans such as No future. It was Sex Pistols time and Zandra Rhodes was revealing to the world her first punk collection. Music changed and was giving birth to a new fashion style. Punk is born !
Punks got garments from charity and thrift shop. They used clothes to attract attention and to express themselves. They refashioned clothes their own way. Defaced print, whilst torn fabrics or frayed edges were considered as shocking at this time. Punk fashion emerged from a lifestyle and it changed all the society. Trousers were torn to make appear laddered tights. Doc Marten's, safety pins and chains accessorized the outfits. Punks really wanted to appear as rebellious and shocking as possible. They rebelled against Establishment.
Punk fashion is nourished by so many elements . It's not only Doc Marten's, tattoos, colored hairs which cotributed to ignite the punk fashion. It' s more than that ! When you'll discover it, you'll see that Punk fashion is everywhere in today's fashion industry. It impulsed a new evolution of creativity and really contributed to fashion events ( cf. Exhibition FIT New York , Dark Glamour).
Punk aestheticism is embodied by a lot of different elements. For clothes: the Leather rocker jacket and customized blazer are one of the common outfits of Punk fashion. Torn Tshirts are part of the daily outfits. They are very popular and most of the time they are torn on purpose! This outfits could be found on "SEX" store, which was one of the most popular Punk garment store. Materials are either in jeans or in leather.
Jeans trousers are most of the time "slim fit". Baggies are for Skater Punk dressing . Collage is part of clothes. Jamie Reid impulsed the technique to customise garments. He's one of the most popular Punk artist of this time. His artistical work is full of pasted symbols (newspapers, advertisings...). He played a very important role in the evolution of Punk aestheticism. Punks borrowed the technique for customizing their clothes. Punk fashion is the most dynamic fashion time for slogans. They are on Tshirt, pins, jackets...
Bracelet Leather
Pins
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Doc Marten's shoes
Punk womens oriented the way they dress in reaction to 70's traditional fashion style. Therefore they mixed conventional clothes with punk style. Then they wear for example a Ballet Tutu with big mens boots and men blazer . They mixed the feminine side with what was commonly used in mens outfits. So today's fashionable "Boyfriend Jacket" found it's origins in Punk style. Bin bags become dresses in Punk dressings, eye-liners are weared by mens and womens. At this time it was shocking! Leather, ribbons are common because of the connection to bondage practices and SM. So Punk fashion style evoluted through the time.
New subcultures appeared in the punk movement. Each sub movement had it's own dressing identity: Hard-core Punk ( chains, colored hairs), Anarcho-Punk, Gothic-Punk ( they include corsets and make up in their style, horror pictures accessorize their T shirt), Skate Punk (most of the time he's a skate boarder and he wears his hairs short cut, Vans, baggy shorts, jeans), Pop Punk ( wears Dickies pant, and All stars shoes...)
Then there is not only one punk style.
Colored hair-style aimed at rejecting hair 70's trends. Wearing hairs colored was a way to react to leading trends . When people claimed : "Fuck fashion, Fuck clothes and Fuck you" , it was difficult to declare the existence of a real Punk fashion . At the beginning the punk cultural movement didnt' aimed at creating a fashion style. Behind clothes there are ideas. It was the expression of people difference. First it was based on Rock music. It emerged in the early 70's in USA and England. Punk was expressing through ideology, music , movies, fashion, litterature, visual arts and it varieted through countries and time. South Africa, England , Australia , USA , Japan have been the first Punk scenes of the movement. Denying the role played by Punk movement in today's fashion industry would be a foolishness ! This period was a rich cultural time , it revealed aesthetic fashion codes. It also inspired designers. Punk lifestyle contributed to emerge new designers. Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes are one of them. So, Punk fashion has a future in our closets ! Style: Punk designers
Punk movement gave to fashion a real meaning. It makes us understanding fashion as the result of expression. Punks used fashion as a way to make people reacting. Fashion is capable to change the world. Using it as a way to tell things can change others. Fashion is not only a label story. It' s a way to use a worldwide power to mobilize and to impulse change. Punk style reminds us that being fashionable implies feeling safe in our body. Labels have a small space in Punk style. Clothes obey to a DO-It-Yourself strategy. "Fashion is ending but style never ends" used to say Coco Chanel. The Punk movement is an illustration of it: punks people weren't considered as fashionable in the 70's. Nevertheless 40 years later it's still a style which is inspiring. Findind your own way to express by clothes is one of the main goal of fashion.
Vivienne Westwood
Punk shoes
Zandra Rhodes The British designer renewed Great Britain's fashion in the 70's. She contributed to put London fashion in the front row of the international fashion scene. Her early fashion clothes have been considered as outrageous. After that ,she dressed royalty family members such as Diana, consequently she has been legalized by the crowd. Her personality inspired fashion labels as Versace, Fendi, Dior, Prada...She's the punk fashion godmother and she totally assumes it. In the early 70's, she introduced elements of Punk fashion in her collection. She made them more Chic .She used large safety pins, gold chains. Versace put those elements in its own collections ( bags , dresses) . Zandra also creates Opera outfits. She's totally involved in today's fashion scene. www.zandrarhodes.com
Trends Punk report
Modern Punky reporter : Anna Piaggi
Who's the most intriguing reporter of the fashion scene? It seems to be difficult to say, but according to me it's Anna Piaggi. The Italian based fashion writer is seen in fashion week front rows . She's a worldwide fashion icon and she write for the best fashion magazines in the world. Her best associates in fashion industry are Karl Lagerfeld and Manolo Blahnik.
She's not one in a million and never will be! Multi language , her style is eclectic . It's the expression of a personal vision of fashion. People call her" the Walking Museum", but she's far away from cliche and non attitude. Anna Piaggi has it's own universe and she conceptualizes fashion as an Art, and not as an industry. Anna Piaggi is an icon who contributes highlighting fashion strenghts. She gives words to the universal fashion language, she writes notes of a worldwide music. Her style is refreshing and stunningly studied. Each component of it isn't a mistake. Anna makes trends revival!
Anna Piaggi photographed by D.Bailey, dress made by JC de Castelbajac
This article is dedicated to one of those person who are supporting you whatever it happens. Someone who welcomed me with a hand-made dolly paper and who left me with tears in the eyes. One of those person who is not afraid to overcome the limits people are drawing for herself, One of those person who is concerned about making grow people's dreams. This article is dedicated to Someone who is totally part of fashion industry but who's still able to know what's important and what's not, Someone who's able to be strong and soft at the same time ( kéké!!!), Someone who's totally crazy and lovely ( hé Maurice, t'as pas une clup s'te plait! ), Someone who can wear Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu without being snobbish, Someone who has a personal understanding of fashion and who doesn't give importance to names or brands. Someone who has more consideration for Gaspard "Yanukovitch" than for Gaspard Yurkievich himself. Someone who's able to work with Perter Lindberg without putting a name on his face, Someone who's able to shoot with Werner without being impressed... Someone who disappeared of some fashion show films after final cut editing,
This person is thinking when it's necessary to think, walking when it's time to walk, smiling when it's time to smile, but sharing love when someone need it.
What you left behind ?
FUN
FUN
SHOWS
ELEGANCE
L'OREAL
THE DREAM TEAM
FLOWERS
GOOD PARTIES
MODELS BY ESSENCE
PHOTOGRAPHERS BY NATURE
"SHOW ME WHAT YOU GOT" EXPERIENCES
SUN
MMS (MEANINGLESS MODEL SLOGAN): OOOOOO YOU'RE GORGEOUS!!!!
Dolce Gabbana is one of the rare fashion label which isn't killing mens Sex Appeal during Men's fashion week. Who's better than two mens can dress mens ? Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are celebrating Men style.
Perfect-body shaped, the DG model brings us back to the 90's, when a wave of supermodels stormed in fashion industry. Dolce and Gabbana is the label which gave an aura to male fashion shows. They find their inspiration in their origins. Sicily is the background of DG collections. Then, it's giving an understanding of Male elegance. Allure, chic, DG mens are assuming their masculinity and wearing suit the perfect way. It's not necessary to repeat that the label is leading the male fashion industry with modern clothes. What would be Male fashion without Dominico Dolce and Stephano Gabbana ? The italian collections are always Chic at first sight. Pneumatically shaped mens are running DG shows . Classic tailor-made suits, sneakers, lizar or crocodile belts are giving personality to men outfits. DG is a Manifesto. The duo is delivering us the secret for chic and casual at the same time.
Wearing clothes it's not only looking chic and shaped, it's being able to move in your body. DG Mens can wear sneakers and having a Men attitude. Always stylish and modern, the DG male fashion is a new ground of style and attitude in men style universe. Once again, DG can be lauded and mens can proudly express their virility in a DG outfit ! Watch and learn !
Fashion industry is hectic. Extremely creative, it's constantly launching new trends and continually making evolving fashionable labels. If fashion were Human, she would be a women : Multi-tasks , she's able to lead different things at the same time. Fashion gives birth to a lot of labels and it's sacrilized. Most of people are respecting it, others are spitting on it. If fashion were Human, she would probably be a women : People are very demanding with it : Fashion has to be beautiful and at the same time challenging. Innovating! Always innovating! Fashion got this high potential to embrace an everlasting beauty. It makes this myth real and it's the role of models, photographers, reporters, designers, make-up artists and others to ignite it. Because there is no beauty without Art. So, in the name of Art, beauty has to be protect! It seems to be very "Nip Tucked" ,but what's Victoria Secret show without all it's beautiful models? What would be Yves Saint Laurent collections without this unique sense of beauty? What's Louboutin label without it's beautiful shoes? As you know beauty is everywhere .
Fashion is managed and each leading actor who's part of it enlightens it's evolution. Trends are windy. Being fashionable means following the wind, being Chic means something else (maybe it's walking on the clouds and touching the sun). Being Chic it's being on the top of everything in the middle of nowhere and having a personal understanding of style. When the industry is producing it's own rules, fashionable people attending a management-of-habits meeting. Fashion is the most powerful media of the world!! Chic is one of it's freelance reporter! There is no beauty without darkness. There is no light without brightness , there is no rain without sun, or pain without gain! Fashion is a Nip Tucking industry where ugly is flirting with beauty, bitchy with sneaky, hunger with candy, and edgy with lovely. At the end, passion is moderating everything. Perfection is the challenging rule but, NipTucking is the damaging tracking-side of the game. Fashion goal is doing and undoing , that's why the game is so entertaining,
Fashion is a mentoring leader. It's prescribe what's IN and what's totally OUT. Then, there is a very thin borderline between free beauty and prescribed ugly!
Genevieve Jones is one of those designers who are giving a real meaning to fashion and style. This funky girl launched a kaleidoscopic collection of accessories. Floral-splashed rings are blooming in the middle of lollipops clutches. Rond hand bags are like candy boxes and everybody is loving it. The almond-eyes designer seduced upper East side fashionistas crew. Totally involved in fashion industry she reveals creativity through a stunning line of jewels and bags. Already adopted by the American Vogue, she has got a real understanding of all things chic. She has Anouck Lepere, Julia Roitfeld, Sean lennon on speed dial and she's a front-row girls in so many shows ( Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen...). Jewelry and hand bags found a new reason to be with Geneviève, and she's totally dedicated to it. She finds inspiration in all her exotic trips. Those accessories are shaped like Maldivian flowers, and they are perfectly matching this season, to highlight a classical style. It's a MUST for all fashionistas closets. Beauty is on nature and Genevieve is revealing the best side of it!!!
The Blaxploitation is a film genre which appeared in USA in the early 70's. During this time of segregation films didn't targeted Black people.It's was more cliche stories. Blaxploitation impulsed movie revolution. It aimed at giving Black people real identities in films . The Blaxploitation changed the representation of Black people in movies. It created new films in the 70's (Trouble men, Shaft, Cotton comes to Harlem...). Whereas Hollywood movies represented Black people only as dancers, singers or burglars, Blaxploitation brought new outstanding Black heroes. Black leading roles are born. It ignited a new wave of general creativity. It was a kind of Black "Nouvelle Vague". What started with movies turned into a real lifestyle. Indeed, Blaxploitation influenced fashion style: Afro hairs, colors, crazy make-up, over-sized glasses, skinny legs pants, colored jackets... It built a very recognizable style which influenced a lot fashion industry. Different artists contributed to Blaxploitation ( Supremes, Sun Ra, Marvin Gaye, Barry White). It changed scripts , mentalities, fashion and music too. It started with politic and it spread all the different level of art in society. Understanding the impact of Blaxploitation on a large range of artistic trends is important. Blaxploitation time is also Disco time and consequently a very creative period for amazing shoes. Today's Haute couture designers shoes, find their artistic roots on this time.
Blaxploitation films have been inspired by Kung fu. Most of Blaxploitation fight scenes are reproducing Kung fu gestures. Blaxploitation is built in reaction of Black segregation, but it find its roots on extra influences such as Asian Kung Fu.
Blaxploitation inspired fashion
André J
Flashy clothes, sequin bags, tight stretch top
Gaultier show Autumn-Winter 2009
Afros are weared with flat berets
Grace Jones
Afro Hat
NaomieCampbell
Xuli Bet adopted the funky vibe of this period, t shirt, dresses reveal this period
Blaxploitation inspired cartoon
As you understood Blaxploitation time was the Disco time. Music, dance, clothes were part of the lifestyle, it's not only the case for Black people it's the case for White too. Nevertheless this period was impulsed by a lot of Black artists. Many Black artists ( singers...) organized in a certain way the Establishment of codes which have been subsequently included in daily habits ( fashion).
Blaxploitation music
Model talk : Alec Wek
Alec Wek is one of those models who looks like nobody else. She has her face, she has her skin color, she has very short hairs, and she's Black ! Alec will never be the girl next door, and that's one of the reason of her success. Some people say that she's ugly, others don' t even know her name. Actually there is a movement which claims that: "Black is beautiful"! Of course it is! Now it is not necessary to precise it, but back in the time it was. "Black is beautiful" is a cultural movement which aimed at showing that Afro natural features aren't ugly. John Sweat Rock (abolitionist), was the first one to tell the slogan in 1858. He launched a dynamic movement in AfroAmerican culture which encourages Black to keep their natural hair and to stop lightening or bleaching their skin. The "Black is beautiful" movement is responsible of the success of Afro hairstyle. Alec is the perfect match for "Black is beautiful" state of mind. She has got this romantic side which makes her face unique. She kept her originally beauty and she highlights it with her charisma. Now she's telling us a short story.
The iconoclast and visionary Sun Ra ( 1914-1993)
The story of a fashion style
Blaxploitation had consequences on music industry. New talents nourished this times creativity. Sun Ra was one of them he had his own music, his own style and a real sense of fashion. He launched the trend ! Non conformism and sensible to colors, he is totally included in Blaxploitation trends. This pianist and jazz composer has a very cosmic universe. Totally flirting with stars, his style has no limits.He found it on the moon for being sure that nobody will copy it. He even dressed his orchestra, who has such a nice style! That's the first vocation of fashion: helping the expression of personalities.Very inspired by Egypt he didn't knew that a couple of top ten designers later, it would be trendy to cloth his way.
Sun Ra
Sun Ra
Vivienne Westwood style : she's definitely less crazy attitude than Sun Ra !!
When you will watch the following video, you will see that Sun Ra had the Galliano style and Vivienne Westwood's one in the same body. He knew that Egypt and crazy make up was trendy!
Dior fashion show inspired by Egypt
Dior fashion show
Final of Galliano Sun Ra isn't the only one being inspired by the moon...
Dior fashion show
Part II
Art is universal.Fashion too, it's bigger than skin colors and nationalities.
Tendances don't have colours. This Black fashion report pretends to make people understand that creativity can be found everywhere. Fashion isn't a closed box. It's an ocean with a lot of rivers. Each worldwide influence has a reason to be. Putting them together really makes sense. It's a way to transform fashion and to make things bigger and more creative. Today's fashion industry has to prioritize the exchange of talents in order to renew it. Fashion trends evolution is guaranteed by mixing influences and building something new.
Jean Charles de Castelbajac designed in January a line of garden furniture for FERMOB.The french designer gave a romantic soul to gardens. Harmony with nature, pure lines associated with a delicate Spring flavour.
