Style Inside

Fashion ID : 46664

2011-03-21T10:39:00.012-03:00

Nelson Mandela launches his first fashion label, using his prisoner's matricule number as fashion ID.

46664 is the name of this internationally-minded South African label which announces a New wave of creativity in South African fashion scene.

Seeking to dynamize local fashion economy, Nelson Mandela decides to impulse the change in creating a local fashion specificity.

46664 launching intervenes at a time when South Africa fashion scene encounters difficulties to develop locally its fashion labels. Rich with a creative fashion potential, the country has to face a lack of financial subsidies necessary to market local fashion designers businesses. However, it's clearly assumed that this african country is proudly hosting a specific identity of fashion, feeding local trends with an underground fashion style only London city can compete with. Then, Johannesburg stands out the crowd as THE fashion hub of the country, considering the Avant-Gardist and home-made underground Hipster Style Joburg citizens are easily identified by.

Consolidating a self-made fashion model where the "Do-it-yourself" becomes an innovation strategy, South Africa develops a unique fashion identity while the rest of the continent remains in its traditional Total Look Wax Style. Then, 46664 creates the impulse in a contemporary fashion scene which has been too often confused with bad quality fabrics and counterfeits items.

The label breaks in South Africa fashion market, standing aside European A-list fashion labels and aligning with "Boutique" fashion designers. For now, 46664 is the first global fashion label emerging from South Africa. Developed under a licencing agreement with Cape Town-based Seardel Investment Corporation Limited, 46664 is endeavoring a new way through, giving hope to fashion designers on Rainbow Nation's future economical fashion features.

Fashion artists such as Athi Patra Ruga or Themba Mngomezulu (Darkie Label) are proudly representing this new generation of contemporary South African fashion designers who successfully developed their own fashion vision. Far from the HIV/AIDS charitable vocation 46664 label assumes, these artists empower South Africa fashion "Nouvelle Vague".

The Rainbow Nation can definitely prides itself for impulsing the change, feeding a Fashion Conscious wind that blows in its local fashion scene.

The official launch of 46664 Collection has been programmed for August this year, with retail stores in Joburgh and different ones across the country.

Paper Dresses

2011-03-17T10:06:00.007-03:00

This Fall season, Issey Miyake ironically reminds us Ready-To-Wear original meaning : On the earliest Ages of this social fashion liberation, Ready-To-Wear was more a practical and easy way to create single-use minded garments from which patterns weren't made to models measures.

Dai Fujiwara decided to bring us back to an Era where Pret-à-Porter was an easy way to fabric clothes, breaking with Haute Couture time, when fitting, sizing and cutting ruled garment creative process.

Developing a collection around the origami theme, Dai Fujiwara created for his last season a show alternating paper dresses with the illusion of fabric.

Creating phantoms of garments in showcasing origami-like dresses, Fujiwara signed this collection on a piece of sheet, writing his name on walking paper pattern dresses, saving his last words before leaving Issey Miyake's artistic direction.

Revisiting the house architectural codes and intricately detailed pattern-making techniques, Fujiwara gaves origami a timeless dimension.

Following on stage paper-patterns silhouettes by fabric versions of those single-use dresses, Fujiwara printed on paper a timeless fashion message.

While this fashion week season has been placed under goodbyes signs, the designer presents a timeless show, like to underline his fashion influence in Miyake's House.Then, he reminds us the Ephemera of fashion, displaying for a last time his words, placing some dots to a fashion language in which he has always been fluent, living behind what will always remain eternal : his Style !

Fujiwara added depth to his collection in nurturing his patterns with M.C Escher's influences, living origami dresses with optical illusions of jackart.

White dresses are outstandingly presented in Black background silhouettes, walking in tune with a childhood flavored little ditty.

Style Hunter

2011-03-16T10:09:00.007-03:00

Grunge by Chanel

2011-03-15T07:31:00.010-03:00

This season, Karl Lagerfeld isn't shying to present a new Chanel women : She's grunge, dark and she crossgenderizes !

Far from the traditional "Bon Chic-Bon Genre" style-which is too often showcased by the House-Karl Lagerfeld imposes his style in revisiting Chanel's codes.

It's in a post-apocalyptic background that Karl presented a collection which in my opinion is a great success.Chanel reinvents the grunge in adding to it drops of Elegance in a sobriety background. This show has been placed under the musical sign of an instrumental version of THE CURE, giving the atmosphere to the whole collection.

Man's jacket, denim leggings, biker boots were on stage; few drops of feminity flavored this slightly male-sized collection . We saw this season a collection of clothes which looked damaged by the time : colors were shadowy-which stand us far from the traditional vivid Chanel "Black-and-White" Credo- and fabrics have been chosen amongst the tough ones : Tweed, Tweed and Tweed again ! Superposed, it ruled the whole show.

This fall collection wasn't a show about slightness but a long live materials Manifesto, celebrating an Era in which clothes survive Time and elements (maybe that's the reason why a fumigating volcano has been placed on stage !).

Reaffirming the identity of the House, or presenting a new identity? Well, I believe this show is a call to Chanel's original identity : Mademoiselle Chanel wasn't a bourgeoise, she was a self-made determined woman with a sense of Elegance, a taste for change and a willing to embrace challenges. Then, I think Karl performed this collection in translating Mademoiselle values, reminding us Chanel House identity survives its time and its designers.

Coco Chanel's spirit was heavily floating on this collection. After Sarah Burton for Alexander Mc Queen and John Galliano for Christian Dior, we can consider this fall fashion week season haunted by fashion phantoms who secretly invested catwalks, sharing on stage a Millésime of truly inspired Style motions.

Aside the scenarization of this show, this collection is in phase with grunge fashion reality : When Gothic-Punk movement found its roots in UK streets, fashion movement turned into a universal second-hand phenomenon : punk clothes stores were not places to find brand-new outfits, especially at the early ages of the movement. Then, Karl reminds us the Essentials of fashion : "Go find your clothes in places they already have been worn several times" because "it's a dark time". It's clearly underlined with this shredded chiffon look some outfits have on stage.

Tunics, tabbarts and capes gave a romantic ton to this collection balancing the dark with drops of colored softness. It's definitely not a pure punk collection, it's just a remind of Coco Chanel spirit which is oscillating between the femininity and this PRESUPPOSED masculine Avant-Gardism. It's a balance between the Yin and the Yang the masculine and the feminine.This fall collection isn't a Chanel Bourgeoise collection, it's a show spiriting the Dark side of Chanel with the audacity of Mademoiselle.

Fashion is currently embracing a very important time of its History : some Success-sized designers die, other are dismissed... It drives us to interrogate ourself about the potential for Fashion Houses to survive their designers. Karl clearly put Chanel show in alignment with his own statement when affirming "the world is a dark place". Well, I won't say that his affirmation is genuinely reflecting my personal understanding of the world, but I can definitely claim Chanel created its world, balancing both sides of its Heritage, conjugating the spirit of Mademoiselle with an ability to overcome the past in surviving its designer codes.

Far from the traditional codes of Chanel's femininity, this Fall collection is at the image of the prestigious House which is emblematic of women in "Avant-Garde" with her time and condition. The presence of Stella Tenant on stage is clearly a reflect of a surviving Epoque.

Fashion Hommage

2011-03-12T10:09:00.020-03:00

Horst is one of those fashion photographers who revolutionized international fashion photography scene.

In a Black and White universe, Horst depicts portraits of emblematic women, sublimizing them from a very personal angle, making his signature highly recognizable for a timeless and styled fashion Escape.

From Mistinguett to Rita Hayworth, the German photographer starred the most prestigious figures of glamour from the 30's to the 80's. He played a leading role in Vogue publications whom contributed to launch it's cliche to the ranks of "Photography with Style".

As a fashion Escapist, Horst is the Father of emblematic cliches which are at the image of a unique sense of Beauty and taste for Style.

Fashion Collage

2011-03-11T07:53:00.024-03:00

When fashion week approaches its end, it's always the same mental scenario: I have lots of fashion show pictures bubbling in my head. Then, I keep having the same fashion hesitations over and over again, trying to determine THE designer who had the best story to tale.

At this stage, I still can't clearly say who was my favorite fashion story as I have a long list of "fashion favorites". Actually, I can make a selection of what are in my opinion, the best fashion week performances: it's a mix of creative fashion concepts erected at the image of Elegance in a background of non-academic styles.

Galliano Men Fashion Week F/W 2011-2012

John Galliano never lacked inspiration. For Dior or for his own fashion label, the designer prides his collections with a strong identity of Style in a very inspired background. That's probably one of the reasons why his audience always keeps vivid memories of his fashion performances which stand apart from any Fashion Academism.

This season, for his F/W Collection 2011-2012, John Galliano inspired men fashion closets with Rudolf Noureïev's Heritage : From his URSS escape to his arrival in Paris, the Russian ballet dancer invested Paris fashion week podiums. Galliano invites him on stage to transgenderize Male fashion closets, mixing ballet influences with basic male fashion pieces.

Galliano silhouettes meet Raspoutin's influences and ballet dancer's attitudes. This Men collection mixes masculine influences with a firmly assumed Ballet dancer Style: tights, leggings or make-up powders flirt with "Swinging London" Styles, Dandy Jackets, dodgy ranger boots, customed-ties styles, fashionably-creepy moustaches and over-sized barbs.

Today it's official: Galliano Men is a traveler who dares to assume his femininity to firmly declare to the world his male identity !

Paris Women Fashion Week F/W 2011 2012

Paris Women fashion week has always been a festival of well-fitted fashion performances. My love for accessories drives me to have a careful attention to Louis Vuitton's 2011 2012 F/W's Collection.

This season Louis Vuitton models are Call-Girls with Style : Marc Jacobs takes us to a universe of Fetishism where Vuitton bags suit Extreme circumstances. Showcasing Call-Girls in Vuitton fashion show is part of fashion Extravaganza stories. Scenarizing Fetishism in using walking-Call-Girls requires more than Fashion designer talents to assume the whole thing with brio. BRAVO !

Marc Jacobs gives to Vuitton bags -and other Vuitton accessories- the leading role of this fantasized movie.
Still keeping a traditional taste for the codes making Vuitton a label of fashion distinction, the designer conjugates to its extremes the ingredients of Fetishism : Leather Belts, vinyl corsets, transparency are so many accessories in Vuitton's Dangerous Seduction Tale.

This season, once again, Marc Jacobs reaffirmed his status : More than a fashion designer, he scenaries and rocks Louis Vuitton stages with the same willing to respect the codes of "The Old Vuitton Lady".

My love for leather and for Walking-Fashion-Armies drives me to have a special consideration for Gareth Pugh's collection.

Gareth Pugh's Models still have outstanding looks, their silhouettes are very structured. This season, the designer put drops of bluish which adds volume and tenderness to the Elegance of silk. It added drops of Romanticism to a collection which is often placed under the sign of Black color. However, this painting fantasy just recreated a Neo-Romantico punk style only Gareth Pugh can perform.

I like Gareth Pugh the same way I like Rick Owens, Thierry Mugler and Ricardo Tisci. The only concern I have when I 'm looking at Gareth Pugh's collection is related to those clearly visible similarities with Ricardo Tisci and Rick Owens collections. Copied and Pasted? Who knows? It just requestionned my understanding of Gareth Pugh's identity. However, it would be unfair to limit Gareth Pugh's collection to those considerations especially when the designer invites us to a Festival of silk (and I love the silk!).

Black silhouettes are still as Futuristic as before. Models are modern amazons and I like that! We are far from the "Shut-Up-And-Walk" modeling concept. Actually Gareth Pugh's fashion scene overcame this selective autism fashion stage : Gareth's silhouettes are alive fashion souls and they even speak.

I like Gareth sense of optical measure. The designer adds to his collection games of superpositions, mixing materials and colors, giving a three dimensional perspective to his silhouettes. It's part of Gareth Pugh's Futurist identity and it's what I like the most.

Victor and Rolf

Victor and Rolf Army has enough character to speak for itself :

Paris : Fashion Week Street

2011-03-11T07:45:00.009-03:00

Tatooed

2011-01-20T09:44:00.002-03:00

Emmanuelle Alt chief editor of the french Vogue

2011-01-17T08:11:00.010-03:00

The end of a reign brings a new Era to the french edition of Vogue Magazine. Condenast appointed Emmanuelle Alt at the direction of the french Vogue. Who else than Emmanuelle could assume the role ? The new french editor in chief who started as a fashion editor at the early age of 20, will successfully assume her new role.
Icon of the french elegance, she endorses a role that suits her style accuracy. Continuity will be assured and will bring the french vogue edition to new roads of success.

I think Emmanuelle is at the image of french simplicity of style. She represents "La parisienne".
Refined sophistication associated with a younger sense of style is definitely what will drive the magazine to go further.

Emmanuelle in style

So Alexander !

2011-01-17T07:34:00.008-03:00

Alexander Mc Queen left behind him a rich heritage of amazing shoes. Fashion-forward in a surrealistic background, Mc Queen's shoes run the show.
Heritage of the past, or prestige of Avant-Gardist Couture?

Tantalizingly futurist, Mc Queen architectural shoes erects as timeless signature of the designer's prestige.

Bringing fashion out of conventional spheres, Mc Queen wrote the letters of a Sci-Fi Fashion scenario revealing a narrative talent for revolutionizing fashion.

Dear Franco !

2010-12-18T16:24:00.026-03:00

Franco Rubartelli contributed to give to 70's fashion cliché their highly recognizable style.

The Italian-born photographer walked through fashion as an explorer and moved fashion icons to the front raws of Universal Glamour.

Constantly scenarizing powerfully-romanticized Amazons, the photographer illustrated the editorial pages of Vogue magazine in the late 60's, at a time fashion industry tuned on change vibrations.

Then, 70's social revolution replaced cloudy fashion-established codes by New Age and Modern style trends.

The photographer contributed to promote up-coming designers such as Yves Saint Laurent who, at the mean time, was lauded for liberating women closets. Rubartelli's shoots reflect this fashion forward move.

Active contributor of the international fashion scene, he scenarized the first Top models of the history : Verushka, Catherine Deneuve and Twiggy with whom he started to work with in the late 60's. Franco Rubartelli's fashion stories are at the image of an epoque : colorful and inspired by a Revolution of women who dared to assume their personality. His 70's cliché present a generation of modeling which were more related to a fashion commitment than a cycle of product predicament.

Afro conquers !

2010-12-18T13:40:00.008-03:00

While Blaxploitation left a timeless footprint in Movie industry, Afro style keep leaving its traces in latest fashion trends.

Afro conquers designers podiums for legitimizing Afro as one of the latest fashion hair style trend.

From Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show stages to Vogue editorial pages, Afro style found its place in the ranks of fashion.

When Black color is still in a recognition process for finding a place in leading fashion magazines pages, Afro style keeps leaving behind a footprint in fashion trends collective memory.

Blaxploitation or not, Afro invests fashion stages !

Photo-Sapiens, by Steven Klein

2010-12-18T12:51:00.013-03:00

Steven Klein's Art photography is a carnival of fashion humanoids.
Style icons, third genders Adonises or trans-gendered women are starring his fashion Cene.

When provocative shots are enhancing his Credo, Steven Klein erects and reflects today's fashion reality : a mystification Cene in a deadly reborn surrealistic Background.

Vogue celebrated in Carroussel du louvre

2010-12-18T12:40:00.005-03:00

While Carine Roitfeld embraces her last days at the head of the french edition of Vogue magazine, the Carroussel du Louvre opens its doors for welcoming for the 3th year an exhibition dedicated to luxury houses celebrated in 2010.

Elizabeth Arden, Sephora or the french edition of Vogue magazine are part of the show.

From the 23th December 2010 to the 2nd January 2011,Vogue covers will be exhibited in the fashion capital in a Retrospective of the most famous Vogue's covers.

It's a commemorative event to celebrate the end of a reign, and the beginning of a new fashion Millesime.

New year, new fashion leaders, new fashion purposes ? Who knows ? Only 2011 will tell.

I selected for you one of the latest french Vogue covers of those last 90 years of fashion !

All my best wishes for a very creative and successful new fashion year.

A fashion fairy told me ...

2010-11-12T16:01:00.011-03:00

In his shoes : 1 Hour with Steven Cohen

2010-10-24T09:47:00.005-03:00

From Cape Town to New York, Steven Cohen walks his own fashion show!

Stepping in-and-out Leigh Bowery’s Heritage, the South African artist sceneries fashion performances putting out what society advocates hiding.

Mixing genders through physical transformations and exhibitions, Steven Cohen Fashion Art performances walk in reaction with political and social borders.

Crossing-in-meeting social and cultural limits, the artist dates the non conventional and the Extravagance.

Cohen isn't one and unique character: in fact, the artist stars infinite personalities, patterning characters he's the only one to perform: Starring a dog or a living lustre in rural environments isn’t commonly seen on fashion stages. However it’s still a fashion language Cohen fluently speaks. Feeling in pain or ashamed is part in the artist experimental work. Living the fashion appearance from an outside look is good but being able to perform it from the inside remains an emotional and physical challenge.

Using diverse materials to nurture his Fashion Art, Cohen revisits and extracts performed accessories from their original contexts. Then, lustres, horns, animal’s skins or animal body parts serve Cohen’s “trance-formations”. They become shoes, hats or corsets ornaments, contributing to the birth of the performed characters.

Reactions aroused toward Cohen’s audience are meeting the size and the originality of the artist fashion performances: Touching, smelling, laughing, mocking or provoquing, Cohen’s audience is fascinated, trying to understand who stands behind the costume.

More than an artist, Steven Cohen is a performing Fashion "Avatar".

When Art pieces tend to be conventionally fixed-in the “politically-defined”, Cohen undresses and designs stories through fashion performances, walking in urban or rural environments he never stood before.

The artist isn’t second-guessing when he walked Wall Street and Time Square skulls shoed while smocking clothed. He turned those corporate places into the private stages of his self-performed fashion show. He overcomes fashion codes and creates "Skulletos”, transforming human skulls into walking high-heeled stilettos. This performance is called “Golgotha”: Controversial manifestation, “Golgotha” showcases the death in life, crossing morality codes in presenting on urban stages a fashion Antithesis of life and death continuity.

S.Cohen told me: “it’s not about bringing the dead to life, but it's about bringing the dead into life literally and physically…".

Matching a Black Smoking, “skulletoes” created a fashion-conscious message carried with proud, pain but faith: Shopping or not shopping? Walking or not walking the line?

Connecting “fashion shows” with Art motions, "Golgotha" performance is a reflexion about Capitalist society and Human infinite nature. It is dialectic between what we buy and what we leave behind, what we owe and what truly remains.

More than a message the artist shares pieces of dreams where butterflies, eye shadows, corsets, horns, “unwearable” heels, are magical keys.

Daring to stand in places he creatively never stood before, Cohen is constantly reinventing himself, stepping through different levels of shame, vulnerability and nudity. He takes the risk to expose himself dangerously, embracing its own fashion limitations. He claimed: "the important is not what you wear but what you take off.

Steven Cohen reminds us the general process of international fashion performances. While modelling scene is perceived as part of a glamorous system, Cohen illustrates with his own fashion conscious language the role played by icons in the manifestation of showcased fashion events. Walking a stage means playing a role that can drive us far from our own fashion limitations.

Steven Cohen in Wall Street-Golgotha 2007

Than you to all those who made this article possible : the artist and his alived creations, Stevenson Gallery in Cape Town, my french roomates.

Steven Cohen
envoyé par MickeyKuyo. - Films courts et animations.

And the Fashion Queen is...

2010-03-02T17:34:00.021-03:00

...

MARIE ANTOINETTE (nf,adj)

Queens of France, Marie Antoinette is also a Glamorous fashion icon. Considered as outrageous back on her time, she is still inspiring today's fashion trends.

Voluminous gown, outrageous hair style, corsets, are part of Marie Antoinette's style!

Far away from 18Th century's conventions, she flirted with fashion in including in it generosity and elegance.

Enhancing Her own silhouette, she made a fool of fashion tradition and became the fashion reference for her coevals.

Queen of her King she's also today's Fashion Queen!

Considered as outrageous back on her time, she established new fashion codes in a very traditionally rooted fashion scene.

Marie Antoinette wasn't only "Madame deficit". More than a fashion addict she contributed to fashion R-Evolution.

Styled and sublimed by her personal fashion "Modiste", the french Archduchess restaured hair styles and established dress codes. From delicate lingerie to oversize luxury gowns, the Queen was doom to dazzle and confuse.

Igniting curiosity-and-envy, her natural audacity established a new fashion way.

Rose Bertin was the one who gave a sparkling taste to Marie fashion style.

Actually the "little Rose" became The "Fashion Minister" of her Queen. Commissioned by Marie Antoinette Rose Bertin's creations were going hand-in-hand with the Queen fashion caprices.

As THE Queen-confident, she drove herself to the top fashion spheres in the 18Th century. Following early prestigious french fashion designers (such as Madame de Pompadour and Madame de Berry), Rose paved the way of french fashion radiance. Driving fashion to Haute Couture, Rose Bertin sketched the first features of french Haute couture.

I wasn't even conceived when all those things happened, but I truly think that sometime, women fashion caprices are tasting good!!!!!!!

A word to the wise is enough !!!

Rose Bertin's creations

Miss Solange Boccovi

10 Looks

2010-03-02T16:50:00.011-03:00

The 128th

2009-11-24T09:30:00.031-03:00

127 articles has been published in STYLE INSIDE. Emotions, dazzling characters, amazing pictures and motivating projects runned me to this 128th article.At this occasion I thought it wasn't inappropriate to celerate it in writting.
No candles, no songs, no cake, just another article, and a special one! What before was just a way to be involved in what I really liked, became a real passion and a witness tool of my daily mood. So, for this 128 th article in STYLE INSIDE, I decided to celebrate an artist. An artist who amazes us with his humour: Ruven Afanador.
Born under Colombia sun, he reveals us a special vision of fashion icons. Dedicated to style, Ruven Afanador has got Luis Bunuel Surrealism. Doted of a very specific universe, Afanador is inking his signature throughout his pictures.
Eroticism, derision, are it's favorite themes. Far away from today's fashion magazines models, Ruven Afanador shares with us a rich and authentic vision of fashion. Powerful and proud of their body Afanador's women dare to have personality!
For the 128 th, I want to drive you in-and-around Afanador's universe. For those who don't have humour...just have a look, at least you will like the picure of the end!

Thank you for all those who supported me since I started and thank you even to the others who tryied to discourage me...it reinforced my passion.

2 centuries of Dandysm

2009-11-04T07:42:00.018-03:00

From Beau Brummel to Alfred d'Orsay, Dandysm crossed centuries. Elegance, refinement, codes and Etiquette stand dandys out of the masse.
Aspiring to stunning looks or outstanding styles turn to be a Doctrine.
Fashion international influence, Dandysm found it's origins in Great Britain in 1808. Now it's an international wave which is collapsing on worldwide fashion.
Ties, perfumes, costumes, frok coats and even corsets are key pieces of Dandys dressing. Dandysm isn't only a fashion movement, litterature, music, has it's own dandy taste. Today's dandy-spirit is still present. From male to female, dandysm crosses gender and overcome cultures to give birth to one of the oldest fashion "niche".
Dandy spirit are you here ?

http://www.lesnouveauxdandys.com

In the secret world of Ellen Von Unwerth

2009-10-29T11:13:00.013-03:00

Shadows, black and white pictures, strong energy and power are so many elements which are putting Ellen Von Unwerth on the top of fashion photography.
Fashion Inside decided to be behind the lens just a short time for exhibiting...

Elegance Feeder

2009-10-29T10:52:00.006-03:00

David Downton fashion illustration strories

2009-10-29T09:21:00.010-03:00

Fashion isn't only a textile matter, it's an illustration story too.

David Downton is one of those Story Teller who're giving soul to Couture in dazzling it throughout illustrations.
Lauded by Harpers Bazaar and by A-list fashion magazines he delivers the essence of Haute Couture prestige in mixing ink, cut paper, charcoal, gouache or pastels.

He gives us an understanding of today's Haute Couture shows in revisiting designers creativity. He tells us more than a decade of fashion story.
From Galliano to Ungaro he put faces and names on his dazzling and mysterious icons.
Most Seen Top models faces are on his screen (Alek wek for Ungaro, Erin O'connor for Christian Lacroix).

Spotting trends in retracing historical values is all an Art!

David Downton turns into a Couture "Voyeur" with the creativity and the ability to give sense and colors to a part of fashion which always seen as a Old-dying-Grand-Ma-not-able-to-survive-and-overcome-his-traditional-image.
Couture isn't dead!
David Downton make it alive.

A shaded vision of fashion

2009-10-29T05:17:00.004-03:00

When the most famous worldwide fashion front row icon is speaking about her vision of trends, it turns to be shaded.
Diane Pernet, the Black Bird of fashion industry reveals us her understanding of fashion in a short interview. Photographer, fashion reporter, she assumes her fashion icon role in sharing with us her fashion industry reality.

http://dianepernet.typepad.com

In the memory of Irving Penn

2009-10-08T05:11:00.013-03:00

He left us the 7th of Ocotber in New York.

The Fashion Island Story

2009-09-23T17:13:00.006-03:00

When comes fashion week time, trend setters are getting crazy. It's time for fashion gossips, speculations and others hectic surprises. Lost in this fashion jungle, it's impossible to find the way out 'cause it's not existing. Fashion is a ONE WAY road which drives you straight on Passion road just on the left side after Obsession road.
Fashion effervescence is flirting with contradiction: balancing between uninterrupted connection and new records, it ignites fashion week vibes. Spotting new trends, lauding "IT girls" of the season, flirting with "IT designer bags", Front Rows sitters ect...
The same fashion debates are fuelling fashionista's mind, DTNB (understand it as "Don't Tell My Booker") parties are running, and latest Marc Jacobs collections are bubbling people's mind.

I am not sure you're understanding where I want to drive you but I will tell you a story and you will understand much better (maybe or not).

Once upon a time in a fashion island, lost in an ocean of talent...

... Actually this fashion island was quite far away from fashion turmoil. It was really hard to access it; Only one word could make you access this special place;
6 magic letters had to be pronounced to enter this very secretive island : T.A.L.E.N.T.

Each time those six letters were said, was raising the island out of the ocean;
Sparkled and daily cradled, the fashion Island was the most prestigious one of the universe. It was a secret talent place.
Devoted artists, clever market managers, or fashion insiders were sitting in trees, just on the summit to touch the sky and to kiss Stars. Dedicated to fashion, tradition, excellence, they were feeding fashion industry secret memory. Far away from spotlights, but, closer to fashion reality, fashion Talents made fashion dream true :
Building a collection-Making a dress shine-Marketing it-Booking models-Running a show-Taking pictures was their daily duties...
Each day of work was represented by puzzle pieces which were joining others in a giant puzzle cut dress. Facing the ocean, this Couture dress was dazzling more and more each day.
Step by step, puzzle pieces were put together to reveal tradition, secrets and codes of fashion labels.

But what if fashion island disappeared to be replaced by a type of fashion Utopia?
What if fashion dreams were only dissimulated behind fashion spotlights?

There's an hidden fashion face which is not necessarily revealed to the public. It content the roots of fashion art.

Bourdin tells stories !

2009-08-26T17:46:00.024-03:00

Stunning pictures are hung on a provocation Background! Womens are leading actresses. Sexuality and shoking surrealism are the main themes of this first screen.
That what embodies Guy Bourdin photographies and movies. He is one of those photographers who revolutionized fashion "clichés" history,since the second half of 20th century.
Impulsing-Act of fashion faith, Bourdin's creations are standing out of contemporary fashion photography.Influenced by Newtown, E.Weston, Magritte, Bourdins creations are taking roots in surrealism universes. Violence, Sexuality, onirism are so many spaces where he likes to star it's characters. Fairy-Teller, he ignites our Hunger of Beauty with constantly evolving personal universes.
Lauded by Harpeer's Bazaar and Vogue, he's also known in advertising World. Sharing wih Helmut Newtown a strong taste for stylisation and controversion, he has a certain sense of photographic humour. Legs, butt, lips.. Women body parts are scripted in atypical situations.
Surrounded by talented artists during his early teenage, G.Bourdin becomes Man Ray "Protégé".
He left us a photogaphic lesson, that even words won't be able to preach ! It's the narrative power of pictures !

Multi talented, he's performing as Director.
Transmitting intensity,audacity are one of his main success. It's a physical experimentation. Women bodies are giving sensibility and dimension to scenes. It's accentuating bodies breath and soul movement. Bourdin's creations are body and soul experiences. He stars scenes as a full screen painter.

Guy bourdin films
envoyé par zohilof. - Regardez plus de films, séries et bandes annonces.

Are you fashionable?

2009-08-07T06:01:00.006-03:00

Listening Pete Doherty, wearing slim jeans,taking drugs, "doing photography 'cause it's fun", "writing articles 'cause Carry Bradshaw is doing it", wearing Rolex watches 'cause Sarkozy wears one... So much stupid ideas about what fashion is. Each artistical movement has it's new trend and it's the case in fashion space.

A "non-fashion-attitude" trend is collapsing in planet Earth. It's a movement which is characterized by people emprisonned by brands and trends. It's a group of people who consider themselves fashionable.It makes me think about the real meaning of this word. What does Fashion word mean?

The word "Fashion" is commonly defined as "current popular custom or style"(Oxford english Dictionnary).

According to this definition, being fashionable implies looking the same each other (having a popular style), applying the same codes, sharing same leisures, having same vision of the world. Then, we can trully say that being fashionable means sharing habits which have been previously validated by standart values of society.
So...if you considers yourself fashionable you're a fool! Following what already has been validated makes you HAS BEEN!
Self declared "fashionable people" are fool as soon as they're deciding to wear clothes because everydody is wearing them. They are put in foolishness when adopting a fashion habit is only driven by the choice of a majority . Following trends find it's origins in different reasons : artistical one, esthetic reasons, family history... Sometimes, choice of clothes have an historical meaning.But when it comes time to be uniformed it's the end of trends and the Begin of foolishness.

Listening Pete Doherty because everydody is listening him is the main caracteristic of foolishness. Listening "Pete" for personal reasons and musical affects leave the choice to adopt (or not) what people want you to like.It's the first emancipation steps. The point is that in each fashion epoque, people followed trends after forerunners put to mainstream a way-to-dress.

From the distinction between male and female outfits to the abandon of corsets in women closets.
From the first use of soap in French Court to children ready to wear, there always been someone who initiated the change and others who followed the impulsion. It drove the evolution of fashion history. It's the way fashion built it's trends and codes. Does it mean that historical fashion trends have been popularized by foolishness?

Fashion created it's codes through social movement, political evolutions. What has been adopted by former generations has an historical meaning and social commitment. But today it's the War of logos.

The real fashion revolution will not be televised: the real fashion revolution will put people in driver's seat of trends road.

In 1405, a fashion writer named Christine de Pisan thought about fashion trend and it's influence on people's habits. She criticized trends forerunner. She considered them as fool. According to her, they had to be ostracized because they were "crazy". She considered each new fashion trend as a Sheep Maker.
She said: " they are following each other as a fool can follow another fool. If the majority were smart, people didn't had to follow trends. Then fashion excess ( trends) wouldn't be imitated".

Fashion trends always ignited same reactions. Following or not following? Adopting or not?

When I am trying to find an explanation to the word fashion, it starts to be confusing.

Fashionable... Fashion Able...Able to be fashion?

Gabrielle Chanel said:" Fashion is changing but style never". Getting personal style, reveals personal identity. This identity who'll distinguish you from the others.

A few weeks ago I met a young stupid girl (23 years old, parisian, and totally bling-bling in her mind).
I won't tell her name 'cause my purpose isn't to screw up "her image" (it's very important for her), so, that stupid girl tempted to explain me that listening a type of music defined if you were fashionable or not.

So according to her being a "Cliché" meant being fashionable.
So much people are not following current trends but are fashionable.
In other side, A-list Fashion designers are inspired by trends and they are following them.They're doing it in a certain way : adding their own sense of style in revisiting trends. That makes the difference.
Coco Chanel wasn't fashionable when she started to develop her style. Then, when she had been lauded by the majority she became "fashionable".

I don't consider myself as Fashion-Able, nevertheless, I am following trends as a watcher, but does it mean I am a F.A person?

Only Fashion can tell, but in Style I trust !

Procuresses Fashion Parade

2009-08-05T19:39:00.017-03:00

When it's time to speak about fashion, we are commonly tempted to mention successful designers,or outgoing young talents. But fashion takes place in the street.

I attended to a special fashion show today. This show is controversed. It's running in Bois de Boulogne or in each international touristic places the world offer to clients:
1- Driving slowly
2-Looking for the one who'll match personal criterias
3-Choosing the most attractive one in the way she/he dresses.

Those three rules are making the show, except the fact that in Procuresses fashion Parade, front rows are not glamour. In Procuresses shows, Buyers are on the stage.
In this fashion Parade, the audience isn't looking for elegance, they just like Fashion Prostitute Parade.
Models aren't named Naomie but X, sometime Y and others are like Kyle: they use XY as street name.
Maked up in a certain way, dressed in the same "outrageous fashion Brand : PP (Prostitute Parade).
What if fashion is on the side walk ?
What if fashion is outrageous and not really gorgeous ?
What if fashion looks non conventionnal ?
What if fashion is a lurre?
What if fashion is a seduction tool to get jobs in a world totally driven by vices hiden hypocritically by society?
What if people stop hiding part of themself and part of others they wish to observe.
Showing the essential, illustrating the Essence of creativity implies taking off clothes for revealing Bodies.
Undress yourself but dress your style!

Being nude, wearing tights, high heels are one of procuresses dress codes. Short skirt and extra slim dresses make appear erotic parts of the body.

DASPU performed in fashion prostitute style. This bresilian fashion brand created by a prostitue put side walk fashion style in a collection.

http://www.daspu.com.br/

Fashion style like
DASPU T-shirts

Prostitution is inspiring today's fashion designers. J.P Gaultier is the one who explored more outrageous fashion codes of it.Corsets, destroyed tights are so many elements the designer like to use.

Under the lens of P.Demarchelier

2009-08-03T11:13:00.006-03:00

The September issue

2009-08-03T07:57:00.006-03:00

Worldwide fashion addicts are expecting a lot from the Vogue US September issue.
But why does it look so important?
September is like the start of fashion academic year in publishing industry. The September issue of Vogue Magazine promises to be juicy.
September is also the name of a film which stars Anna Wintour. We can see her managing her team in improving Vogue magazine prospects of success.
Lauded and feared, she decides what's in or what's out! Tyrannical Anna? No she's not!
Concerned about maintaining a high level of quality for Vogue magazine? Yes she is!
September is time for Anna to star a special movie : the movie of her life, the movie of her career.
She propulses us in her Day to Day backstages.
A lot of excitation, a lot of stress. Models, fashion editors, designers are under spotlights.
They're running the show but Anna is the one who is constantly watched. Her fashion expertise enforced by her charimsa makes her "The Vogue Medusa".
Without sun glasses she's revealing her true face. It's without doubt she convinces us that being Chief Editor of Vogue isn't only a funny job!

A CHANEL-Tweed-Jacket-story

2009-08-01T17:22:00.013-03:00

When Love affairs are influencing fashion history, it makes move fashion universe.
From Westminster Duc's elegance to fashionista's closets, tweed stories are passing the time without loosing an ounce of chic.

Gabrielle Chanel borrowed Tweed in men's closet. Her relationship with the Duc of Westminster pushed her into the wave of pure elegance. Sensibility for british sense of style led Gabrielle to consider tweed jacket as DNA of it's collection. Using mens outfits materials fits womens good, and it's announce the beginning of the Chanel-tweed-jacket-story...

Chanel's Back-on-the-time

2009-07-13T07:05:00.006-03:00

The Vermont countryside has a Beginning of century's perfume.
Karl Lagerfeld officializes it !
The designers realises a photographic performance with the A/W 2009-2010 Chanel campaign.
Beginning of century's outfits are starring Coco Chanel's Epoque.
Lagerfeld renew Chanel's identity in using mademoiselle's epoque as backdrop.
He reminds us historical codes of the brand.
Like impelled in Mademoiselle Time, Chanel women is still elegant and independent. No corsets, pure lignes, simplicity and elegance are characterising the next season by Chanel.Tradition without walling in womens shapes is Chanel Credo.
Propelled in a world of women, designed by a women, this campaign is a photographic Ode for the one who revolutionized womens status.

R.Avedon under Fashion spotlights ( 1923-2004)

2009-07-07T21:06:00.019-03:00

Fashion get it's dimension as soon as photographers give body to it's beauty .
Richard Avedon is one of them. He put a name on fashion shapes, a colour on fashion textiles and sensibility to fashion vibes.

He's one of those who're making fashion vulnerable and powerful at the same time.
He's one of those who are pushing away fashion on it's extreme limits. He gave dimension to what is commonly named Beauty and put Beauty on what commonly seems to be dumpy.
Avedon celebrates original beauty and revealed it in searching it's soul.
He transmits us an eye on shapes, and performs as fashion story teller. He ignited curiosity for fashion shapes in revisiting the depth of elegance.
In the road of audacity he overcame borderlines of creativity.

Fashion fresh off the Couture runways

2009-07-07T14:28:00.008-03:00

The most expected fashion event is in Paris : Haute couture collections are back! Fashion world curiosity is flirting with mountains and everybody is looking at Style stars.
Paris is the world leading couture place and it gives meaning to Elegance.
The most traditional french fashion labels are running shows and performing Haute Couture.
Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent or Dior are the A-list designers of the week. Nevertheless, new talents joined the Most private fashion family.
Couture is an heritage of french fashion roots. It's the expression of time. Couture is like an old-attractive-Lady who's threatened-to-death but keep it's strengh by the power of it's origins.
During three days ( 6 July-8 July), Haute couture designers will present their creations . While fashion industry is worried about the End of Haute couture, designers tempt successfully to amaze by reminding the audience their codes and origins.
Credit crisis or not the show must go on!
Collection Haute couture 2009/2010 are still revealing strong fashion label identities :
This season, John Galliano revisited Christian Dior time : it's the Epoque of "Couture Salon" intimacy, it's time of elegance, it's a time when Mens assumed their attraction for " Les Coquines".
Dior runway revealed elegant style with a drop of irony. Aristocratic Allure has a sweet taste of Sexy. It's with a refined minimalism that Galliano made Christian Dior style alive. It's a Manifesto of Elegance, a commemoration of 40's allure. Galliano put Christian Dior style in high orbit.
He transmits a lesson of elegance in Avenue Montaigne Dior salons: a body can be nude in empowering it's elegant touch. Elegance is a way to be. Elegance is an over-body-strengh which goes over clothes to built Charisma. It can make you chic in being half nude.

Beauty by Nature

2009-06-18T16:37:00.015-03:00

Using active principles of plants is Erborian expertise. Declined in Sorbets, or Infusion, Erborian sweat-and-soft creams will seduce your skin.

It's because beauty comes from the inside that Korean laboratories are balancing virtues of traditional Korean medicinal plants with high technicity creams.

Based on "microcirculation" technik, Erborian products have a double effect : they are good for your skin but good for your mind too!

Delivering more essentials and less superficial is Erborian concern.
Natural ingredients are improving natural beauty: Ginseng, Yuzu, gingenber, natural proteins, lemon...
Erborian creams are therapeutic;

Style Inside tested Erborian products it's a real Beauty experience.

Style Inside tested Erborian Ginseng Elixir. It's the perfect support for a fresh and revitalized skin.The high concentrated formula will reveal the original beauty of your skin.

Beauty Tips for fashion week models

One, Two, Three...

1-Herbal energy cleaner nourish and revitalize your skin, erase signs of tyring and age.
2-Ginseng day infusion purify your skin from Make-Up. For a soft and sweet skin.
3-Ginseng infusion total eye will help models to restrengh the "eclat" of their skin.

http://www.erborian.com

Tested and adopted by models

Ginseng night infusion cream

The night cream formula Ginseng Infusion prepare your skin from-the-night-to-the-early-day. An healthier skin from the beginning of the day is a guarantee of long lasting natural skin beauty.

Yuza sorbet :

Fresh and natural, this "micro-emulsion" cream, hydrates and regenerates your skin from the inside.

The Must Have of natural skin therapy: Erborian elixir

This high concentrate Serum deeply renew your skin with Korean medicinal tradition.
Put a few drops of it in your day or night cream and get energizing Ginseng virtues. Immediate effects!

www.erborian.com
+33 0142 712 200

Leigh Bowery reforms silhouettes (1961-1994)

2009-06-13T14:15:00.029-03:00

“Dress as though your life depends on it, or don’t bother” said Leigh Bowery. For sure he achieved to do it. His universe is outstanding: extra make-up, crossgender style, volumes, corsets, plateformes shoes are so many details which are distinguishing Bowery style.

The Australian designer reformed garments, shapes, conventions. More concerned about the interaction between body and clothes, he considered garments as instruments of self confidence. L.Bowery is a perfect example of it . He dressed and inspired. His outrageous style has been lauded by singers such as Boy George and revisited by today's designers ( Gareth Pugh). Bowery transmited us a modern thinking of fashion. Totally unconcerned with aestheticism and conventions, he's a magician of silhouettes. He gives audacity to garments and makes people react. Subtleties of silhouette are one of the big part of his reflexion. Body is giving dimension to clothes. Fashion became Bowery experimentation. He fit his clothes in his silhouette and he even displaced his flesh to extend the universe of clothes on body. Bowery liked showing off.
His Art of garment is reforming shapes of body. He said "I rather think that I reform the body than I am deforming it". Disturbing and entertaining was his main goal. He didn't considered himself as a fashion designer but he brought more to fashion industry than a status. He gave liberty to clothes and bodies. Leigh was a freaking Diva with a real sense of foolishness in a too conventional world.

Bowery style

Bowery inspires

Alexander MC queen Show

Boy George. Leigh designed for him clothes in the late 80's. The singer contributed to makes LeighDéfilé Ete 2009 Gareth Pugh

Betsy world

2009-06-11T16:10:00.003-03:00

A drop of punk, with a glimpse of rock 'n roll are describing Betsey Johnson shows.
Passion, audacity, eclecticism are dynamiting fashion universe.
Betsey gives us a lesson of innocence. She transports us in a fairy taile world. Who said that fashion people were not funny?
In Betsey world, models are baby dolls, lost in a Punky/Funky universe.It's magic. Clothes are perfumed with childhood, dresses are weared with a lot of "frou-frou". Betsey doesn't stop to express her VAVAVOOM. This is powder of Dynamite! Sometimes she has crazy ideas, then, models are running the show with bracelets.
Betsey runways are a cocktails of "I don't-want-to-grow-up-Syndrome".
Totally inspired by the eighties, she revisits this time with a real sense of style. Shy girls have to go back home! Give a space to Betsey girls: Modern girls who really doesn't care about fashion conventions . Watch your style, 'cause Betsey girls are landing! From fairy taile to life there is only one step.

When Betsey speak it's ...

The Hollywood Walk

2009-06-07T17:35:00.018-03:00

Action!
When shoes are starring, the movie of fashion is starting.
5,4,3,2,1...
Then, shoes become movie stars. They are performing and transforming : Sparkled, colored, geometric, highly designed.
Fashion revisits special effects universe: heels are in Swarowsky Cristal, shoes double their sole for higher effect.
James Bond girl or Grace Kelly style, Pop Art or Sci-Fi, shoes are announcing the scenery. They adapt to women personality and change their face each step of their history.
The movie is about to end. Nevertheless this short selection is a big celebration of women's beauty and elegance.

My girlfriend is a model

2009-06-07T12:33:00.007-03:00

How do "non-model-mens" react when they have a model girlfriend ? When it comes to love and modeling nothing is doomed to failure. So much "model/non model" couples had a beautiful love stories :

"After I had a crush on her, I discovered she was a model". ( N+S= 3 years relationship)

"I had a crush on her and I already knew she was a model". (C+C= 2 years relationship)

"She became model after the beginning of our relationship". (S+F= 7 years relationship)

At any case, having a model girlfriend is teasing non-model boyfriends EGOs.

Dating a model isn't really easy, especially when it's coming time to deal with Love and Modeling on a daily basis. It's the beginning of conflicting reactions.
Being proud, feeling uncomfortable, loosing self esteem are so many reactions which can happen in a model/non-model couple.

Being from a different environment in a couple is a rich experience but handling it is much better! So how do mens feel when they are dating a model?

The most predictive reaction for a men is feeling proud of dating a girl who attracts people attention. They have a proud allure in walking on the street with the model girlfriend on their side. So, dating a model can bring mens more self-esteem.

The second reaction is more apparented to intimidation, I explain myself :" -She's a model, I am not, so, sometime I feel like a shit". Dating a model can be the occasion for mens to develop inferiority feelings. So dating a model can put mens down !

The third reaction is the one of the extremist boyfriend.
Being model implies dealing with nudity, being harassed by people in the street, shooting with other male models, looking sexy when it's necessary, doing lingerie shows, traveling a lot, being available 24/7 (so not available for activities with the boyfriend!).
Some mens don't really have an understanding of this job, so they have extreme reactions . They show themselves possessive, jealous and prevent their girlfriend to express in their job. So, dating a model can ignite extreme feelings in mens mind.

Hopefully, non-models boyfriends are capable of good things too ! Driven by love, they can have the reaction which make things much more easier: it's the Understanding.

The understanding that modeling is a job.
The understanding that modeling implies discipline and time.
The understanding that fashion is a tough universe and that being from another environment can bring something healthy to the couple.

Those reactions are in conflict in models boyfriends mind. So, dating a model isn't so easy. But, dating a girl before dating a model has maybe much more Meaning.

Role model

2009-06-06T08:35:00.015-03:00

Being model implies having a certain look. Attending to castings isn't only coming with a book and smiling, it means more.
Having a certain style is important. Clothes have to fit your body and to show the most important parts of it. Thin legs, small hips, flat stomach and beautiful skin have to be guessed thanks to clothes.
Your outfit has to show how beautiful you are and how hard you worked for being perfectly shaped. Slim jeans, leggings, mini skirts are models Must Have. It will help to prove a sense of style.
Models are running shows on stage but on the street too. They are making trends, and "runwaying" fashion capitals streets.

Model style icon: Agyness Deyn
Being natural and fresh is one of the most important tips in a model career. Agyness Deyn is one of those supermodels who are amazing designers because of her style and attitude.

Eighties revival

2009-05-29T13:32:00.025-03:00

I am born in 1983 and Fashion 80's revival is coming at the right time . It makes remind me an innocent chikdhood full of colored pictures. It was a time when people were willing to renew their environment in breaking rules.
Being born in the eighties does it mean that you are born under a lucky star ? Does it mean that you have the positive energy to change everything you want ? Does it mean than you can be different in getting your Liberty ? I don't have the answers of those questions but I am thinking about it.
For me 80's means more than my year of birth, it's above all a lot of memories: The Prince of Bel Air, Bon Jovi, Madonna, Tina Turner, Boy George or Magnum...
All those personnalities contributed to make what 80's embodies today : a colorful and creative period. When MTV started, Tina turner was shining on the stage.
80's are a drastic changing time in music industry and consequently in fashion world. It's time of showing-off fashion styles. It's symbol of evolution : Ronald Reagan was president of America, Margaret Thatcher was driving England crazy and Communism was ending. The Berliner Wall was falling down and politics were trying to make us forget "Chernobil's mistake". It's a contesting decade. Liberal political ideas were developing a new way of thinking in society.It fed new fashion behaviors. Fashion was changing. 80's was a boosting time for it. A new wave was coming down on worldwide Conservatism.

80's are back and it puts Mickael Jackson as a fashion trender.
Wide T-shirt , sequined jackets, are celebrating the 80's style.
Balmain, seduced, revisited it during Pret-à-Porter fashion shows : Jackets are sequined and silhouettes are definitely Rock and Rolled .
Back on the scene, 80's style had settled in fashion trends since 2006. What started with skinny jeans Come-Back, broke into worldwide fashion trends.
Taste of liberty is blowing in fashion industry.
Crazy hairs styles, Controversed pop stars, colored tights, kaleidoscopic sneakers... It's a bubbling time!
80's fashion is far away from aritocratic style! Eccentricity, provocation, are the key words of the gender. It is not a uniformed look, it's all about mixing clothes together.
80's silhouette are flirting with X factor, shoulders are large, waist very thin and hips larger, that's one of the reason why the Blazer had a success in 80's dressings. Bracelets and necklaces are over sized and colorful.
Credit crisis or not it's a new energy which is arriving in fashion industry and it's renewing it. Why should we adapt our clothes to the mororsity? Fashion has a role to play: changing our mood in making our outfits smiling.

Seen on the Archives : Dolce and Gabbana Show
Spring/Summer 2007

80's fashion tips : Welcome in Mickael Jackson closet

Fashion designers hijacked Mickael Jackson style in something more conventionnal. MJ definitly became a fashion fodder. The last Balmain show is totally inspired by Mickael jackson outfits.
The king of Pop has been recently seen with a sequined Balmain Tee, it stunned all the fashion industry. Since this time he didn't stopped to ignite our fashion curiosity. He appeared with a Givenchy studded jacket and top. It's just the continuation of the historical MJ fashion style. What started years ago is a legacy for fashion industry.

Eighties True Fashion Icon

80's are the time of charismatic characters. Designers copied their style and put
them on fashion shows. Boy George is one of those eclectic character who made the difference by his outstanding style. Just have a look on it, you will see that Boy George style is totally inspiring!

Boy George/ Alexander Mc queen

Boy George / Top Shop

Boy George/ Marc Jacobs

Dear Mademoiselle

2009-05-18T18:33:00.005-03:00

Name : Chanel
Nickname : Coco
Mission: Revolutionizing womens outfits

Mademoiselle Chanel embodies fashion liberty and Elegance . She's originally the one who gave birth to modernity in fashion: ending corsets, wearing mens outfits are so many elements which contributed to renew fashion.
Who's better than a women can dress another women ?
With her very distinguish way to speak and her skinny silhouette, Coco built the origins of the most recognizable fashion empire. Respectful of women's body, she early knew that fashion didn't aimed at overshowing, it aimed at revealing essential elegance. Being labeled by labels and shaped by fashion trends is breaking the real sense of style . Attitude comes from the inside and breaking common trends is igniting personal trend.

Chanel Home

CHANEL PERFUMES

For Mens

For Womens

Chanel show
* « Dans une réception, si l'on dit à une femme : quelle belle robe ! c'est que sa robe est ratée. Mais si l'on dit : quelle belle femme ! c'est que sa robe est réussie. »

Decade me fashion

2009-05-17T10:29:00.024-03:00

What makes Fashion decade?
I think that it's the audacity breaking the rules. It's the border line between beauty and decence.
Fashion decades us when it's igniting the dark side of each one of us. Decadence isn't only the extreme sides of human nature it's the endless limits of beauty. Fashion decade is what gives personality to fashion and what's feeding it.
It's revealing a new sight of beauty, and a bunch of authenticity.

The photoshoot of the week

2009-05-17T10:25:00.006-03:00

Jewelry trend report : Delfina Delettrez story !

2009-05-10T19:24:00.009-03:00

When Romanticism and Gothic are meeting each other, it's giving birth to a jewelry collection. But who's the designer who had the audacity to mix so different universes ? Delfina Delettrez of course !
Delfina is one of those young talented designer who's not afraid to perform .
21 years old girl only , and already Fendi's jewel designer. She worked in the best fashion label such as Chanel and she's inspired by fairytale universe. A drop of horror movies, to get a glimpse of Delfina universe ? Why not and we are crazy about that ! Fantasy is the basis of an iconoclast collection.
Skeleton and skulls are turning into bracelets or rings. Spiders become accessories . It's always Chic and romanticized in an elegant way. This summer the designer is proposing colored characters with an imaginary backdrop . Delfina is telling us a beautiful story. It's a mix of darkness and softness , Nature and imagination. The collection has already been lauded by fashionistas. It's available at Colette (Paris).
Audacity, creativity are making skulls fashionable. We even wear spiders in our fashion outfits and it's not scarying at all !
Silver, gold, marble, black diamond, stones are giving mysticism to her collection. She has a very hectic universe and she invites us to share it.

We like the skeleton Bracelet :

Anna Piaggy style

2009-05-08T22:17:00.027-03:00

Who's the most intriguing reporter of the fashion scene?
It seems to be difficult to say but according to me it's Anna Piaggi. The Italian based fashion writer is seen in fashion week front Rows . She's a worldwide fashion icon and she wrote for the best fashion magazines in the world. Her best associates in fashion industry are Karl Lagerfeld and Manolo Blahnik. She's not one in a million and never will be! Multi language, her style is eclectic. It's the expression of a personal vision of fashion. People call her the " Walking Museum" but she's far away from cliche and non attitude. Anna Piaggi has it's own universe and she conceptualizes fashion as an Art and not as an industry. Anna Piaggi character is one of this icon who contributes highlighting fashion strenghts. She gives words to the universal fashion language, she write notes of a worldwide music. Her style is refreshing and stunningly studied. Each component of it isn't a mistake. Anna makes trends revival!

Anna Piaggi photographed by D.Bailey, dress mde by JC de Castelbajac

Depict Anna style

Anna at work

Anna Piaggi et Karl Lagerfeld 1970

FASHION-OLOGY EXHIBITION PICTURES Feb-April 2006

The exhibition was analysing Anna Piaggy fashion universe. The retrospective is divine.

With Vern Lambert - Paris, 1980's - Roxanne Lowit

At fashion collections - Paris, 1980's - Roxanne Lowit

Worth, Anna a Rome - 22/01/1977 - Wearing bustle jacket by Charles Worth 1992, 1920's shoes, jodphurs from Lawrence Corner, London.

Upside Down Anna - 07/07/1977 - Wearing costume by Sonia Delauney for Cleopatra ballet.

Gown - Gold cloth with velvet - Poiret

Cape - Rose woven brocade with gold lace - Carel

Purple Jacket - Violet crepe de Chine with a candle embroidered on each sleeve - Karl Lagerfeld for Chloe

Fortuny Punk 15/07/1977 - Wearing Fortuny dress (pictured)

La Bougie qui Bouge 15/12/1985 - Wearing Schiaraparelli and jacket from Karl Lagerfeld's collection 1985/6. (Pictured)

Camoflage - 19/06/1978 - Wearing husband Alfa's jacket.

Les Looks d'Anna pour le weekend du 19/01/1977

Anna Piaggy has this hybrid style which is giving her a never-seen attitude. Never copied, she built her own identity and she owes it to fashion history. Inspired by different fashion epoques, she borrows key pieces of each time of it.
Hats, shoes, colors. She mixes punk attitude, with dandy's one, in revisiting best clothes time.
Modern Fashion dandy , she embodies today ,what fashion aims to be: a real way of expression.
When you look at Anna's face, it's difficult to distinguish if she's a man or a women and that what's make the difference.
Her Boy George face, makes us feel that Anna's fashion has a special meaning.
She put dandyism in fashion and it's turning into a new fashion style. When she appropriates mens outfits in her closet she gives a new dimension to style.

Associating 18 Th century silhouettes with blue hairs and whitened skin is one of the best Anna's outfit. Anna Piaggy is Fashion Art in progress. She's not only the fashion reporter who's looking for modern trends, she's the one who's not afraid of wearing a chapeau haut de forme.
She cultivates her individuality. In starting to built her style, she collected vintage clothes.
Now, she's flirting with fictional world and reality in a kaleidoscopic background.
When she arrived in London (at the beginning) her style got a new dimension. She has been fascinated by iconoclasts characters such as pirates, suffragettes, punks or dandy's.
Then, they totally inspired her outfits . She's mixing those elements altogether in order to create the ANNA STYLE. "High" fashion and "low" fashion are in the same outfit. Anachronising fashion elements are keys to modern fashion style;

At fashion collections - Milan, March 1988 - Bill Cunningham

Wearing Ken Scott Glasses - Milan 1974 - Nicola Lamina

Anna's fashion Inspiration

Beau Brummel : 18th century Dandy

Punk

Gothique

Dating a supermodel

2009-05-07T17:15:00.008-03:00

Do you ever asked yourself what models boyfriend look like ?
Vogue US is giving an answer to this question in the April issue . Supermodels are taking the pose with their boyfriend. Just have a look on it ! Sweet Fashion Love we love your name !

Doutzen Kroes and her lover

Chanel Iman and her boyfriend

Julia Stegner and her lover

Anna Jagodzinska and her boyfriend

Arlenis Sosa and her boyfriend

Angels auctioned !

2009-04-28T19:23:00.010-03:00

Jean Charles de Castelbajac designed in January a line of garden furniture for FERMOB.The french designer gave a romantic soul to gardens. Harmony with nature, pure lines associated with a delicate Spring flavour.
While angels were kissing in our backs , we liked relaxing and looking at the sun. Now it's time to look at angels in the eyes, because they are auctioned by FERMOB.
You will be seduced by creativity, chic and elegance. A drop of poetry flavored with flowers is a perfect match for the Spring time.
Until the 24th May, you can discover the poetry of colors in a very chic way. Purple, green, white,Pink are whispering. Encrusted Romantic lines are declined with softness in the body corp of chairs . It's time for Romanticism!! Angels just need to fly, and Castelbajac is spreading their wings.
You can taste the sound of colors on www.castelbajac-pour-fermob.com. Angels put their most beautiful colored dresses for the event. Don't miss the kaleidoscopic Ballet!

Swinging Chanel !!!

2009-04-27T12:16:00.009-03:00

When the most frenchy label arrives in Selfridges , it's giving birth to a kaleidoscopic line of make-up.
For the launch of it's new make-up line, Chanel found inspiration in England. The fashion label borrowed the Union Jack just the Big Ben Bell Time of eye-shadows or lip sticks.
In July the most frenchy label of the planet gave a British accent to it's make up line: "The London Madness Collection" is a drop of fantasy in the middle of tradition.
France is celebrating Great Britain through a limited selection of original products.This is the most fashionable accessorize of the season. Audacity and tradition in a same product that's an amazing combination which gives a never-seen-dimension to Chanel.
Beauty is a Blessing ( the Queen told us!), so just go in Selfridges, get the line, don't leave a piece of it behind, but never forget that God save the Lip stick!!!

Rouge Allure Enthousiast Lip Stick, Chanel

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, W1A 1AB london

PUNK me fashion !

2009-04-26T00:42:00.035-03:00

"This is England" is one of those beautiful films which depicts the evolution of Punk style in the early 80's. Most of Punk codes are presented. Characters don't have colored shaved hairs , because they belong to another group of Punk movement which is more extremist in it's style and attitude. They have shaved hairs , they are in rebellion. The movie offers us a perfect portrait of what punk is. In this film the line between Punk and Skinhead is very low . At this time , punk fashion was mainly oriented as a lifestyle before being a fashion style. It was more about a way of thinking than a way of dressing. The way they dress explained their relation with society.

What first defined as an anti-fashion street youth culture, turned into a real fashion style. Black Leather, chains, punk colored hairs were empowering revendicative slogans such as No future. It was Sex Pistols time and Zandra Rhodes was revealing to the world her first punk collection.
Music changed and was giving birth to a new fashion style. Punk is born !

Punks got garments from charity and thrift shop. They used clothes to attract attention and to express themselves. They refashioned clothes their own way. Defaced print, whilst torn fabrics or frayed edges were considered as shocking at this time. Punk fashion emerged from a lifestyle and it changed all the society. Trousers were torn to make appear laddered tights. Doc Marten's, safety pins and chains accessorized the outfits. Punks really wanted to appear as rebellious and shocking as possible. They rebelled against Establishment.

Punk fashion is nourished by so many elements . It's not only Doc Marten's, tattoos, colored hairs which cotributed to ignite the punk fashion. It' s more than that !
When you'll discover it, you'll see that Punk fashion is everywhere in today's fashion industry. It impulsed a new evolution of creativity and really contributed to fashion events ( cf. Exhibition FIT New York , Dark Glamour).

Punk aestheticism is embodied by a lot of different elements.
For clothes: the Leather rocker jacket and customized blazer are one of the common outfits of Punk fashion. Torn Tshirts are part of the daily outfits. They are very popular and most of the time they are torn on purpose! This outfits could be found on "SEX" store, which was one of the most popular Punk garment store. Materials are either in jeans or in leather.

Jeans trousers are most of the time "slim fit". Baggies are for Skater Punk dressing .
Collage is part of clothes. Jamie Reid impulsed the technique to customise garments. He's one of the most popular Punk artist of this time. His artistical work is full of pasted symbols (newspapers, advertisings...).
He played a very important role in the evolution of Punk aestheticism. Punks borrowed the technique for customizing their clothes. Punk fashion is the most dynamic fashion time for slogans. They are on Tshirt, pins, jackets...

Bracelet Leather

Pins

Doc Marten's shoes

Punk womens oriented the way they dress in reaction to 70's traditional fashion style. Therefore they mixed conventional clothes with punk style. Then they wear for example a Ballet Tutu with big mens boots and men blazer . They mixed the feminine side with what was commonly used in mens outfits. So today's fashionable "Boyfriend Jacket" found it's origins in Punk style.
Bin bags become dresses in Punk dressings, eye-liners are weared by mens and womens. At this time it was shocking! Leather, ribbons are common because of the connection to bondage practices and SM. So Punk fashion style evoluted through the time.

New subcultures appeared in the punk movement. Each sub movement had it's own dressing identity: Hard-core Punk ( chains, colored hairs), Anarcho-Punk, Gothic-Punk ( they include corsets and make up in their style, horror pictures accessorize their T shirt), Skate Punk (most of the time he's a skate boarder and he wears his hairs short cut, Vans, baggy shorts, jeans), Pop Punk ( wears Dickies pant, and All stars shoes...)

Then there is not only one punk style.

Colored hair-style aimed at rejecting hair 70's trends. Wearing hairs colored was a way to react to leading trends .
When people claimed : "Fuck fashion, Fuck clothes and Fuck you" , it was difficult to declare the existence of a real Punk fashion . At the beginning the punk cultural movement didnt' aimed at creating a fashion style. Behind clothes there are ideas. It was the expression of people difference. First it was based on Rock music. It emerged in the early 70's in USA and England. Punk was expressing through ideology, music , movies, fashion, litterature, visual arts and it varieted through countries and time. South Africa, England , Australia , USA , Japan have been the first Punk scenes of the movement.
Denying the role played by Punk movement in today's fashion industry would be a foolishness ! This period was a rich cultural time , it revealed aesthetic fashion codes. It also inspired designers.
Punk lifestyle contributed to emerge new designers. Vivienne Westwood and Zandra Rhodes are one of them. So, Punk fashion has a future in our closets !

Style : Punk designers

Punk movement gave to fashion a real meaning. It makes us understanding fashion as the result of expression. Punks used fashion as a way to make people reacting.
Fashion is capable to change the world. Using it as a way to tell things can change others. Fashion is not only a label story. It' s a way to use a worldwide power to mobilize and to impulse change.
Punk style reminds us that being fashionable implies feeling safe in our body. Labels have a small space in Punk style. Clothes obey to a DO-It-Yourself strategy.
"Fashion is ending but style never ends" used to say Coco Chanel. The Punk movement is an illustration of it: punks people weren't considered as fashionable in the 70's. Nevertheless 40 years later it's still a style which is inspiring. Findind your own way to express by clothes is one of the main goal of fashion.

Vivienne Westwood

Punk shoes

Zandra Rhodes
The British designer renewed Great Britain's fashion in the 70's. She contributed to put London fashion in the front row of the international fashion scene. Her early fashion clothes have been considered as outrageous. After that ,she dressed royalty family members such as Diana, consequently she has been legalized by the crowd.
Her personality inspired fashion labels as Versace, Fendi, Dior, Prada...She's the punk fashion godmother and she totally assumes it.
In the early 70's, she introduced elements of Punk fashion in her collection. She made them more Chic .She used large safety pins, gold chains. Versace put those elements in its own collections ( bags , dresses) . Zandra also creates Opera outfits. She's totally involved in today's fashion scene. www.zandrarhodes.com

Trends Punk report

Modern Punky reporter : Anna Piaggi

Who's the most intriguing reporter of the fashion scene? It seems to be difficult to say, but according to me it's Anna Piaggi. The Italian based fashion writer is seen in fashion week front rows . She's a worldwide fashion icon and she write for the best fashion magazines in the world. Her best associates in fashion industry are Karl Lagerfeld and Manolo Blahnik.

She's not one in a million and never will be! Multi language , her style is eclectic . It's the expression of a personal vision of fashion. People call her" the Walking Museum", but she's far away from cliche and non attitude.
Anna Piaggi has it's own universe and she conceptualizes fashion as an Art, and not as an industry. Anna Piaggi is an icon who contributes highlighting fashion strenghts. She gives words to the universal fashion language, she writes notes of a worldwide music. Her style is refreshing and stunningly studied. Each component of it isn't a mistake. Anna makes trends revival!

Anna Piaggi photographed by D.Bailey, dress made by JC de Castelbajac

Anna Piaggi at work

Someone we left behind

2009-04-25T20:59:00.022-03:00

This article is dedicated to one of those person who are supporting you whatever it happens.
Someone who welcomed me with a hand-made dolly paper and who left me with tears in the eyes.
One of those person who is not afraid to overcome the limits people are drawing for herself,
One of those person who is concerned about making grow people's dreams.
This article is dedicated to Someone who is totally part of fashion industry but who's still able to know what's important and what's not,
Someone who's able to be strong and soft at the same time ( kéké!!!),
Someone who's totally crazy and lovely ( hé Maurice, t'as pas une clup s'te plait! ),
Someone who can wear Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu without being snobbish,
Someone who has a personal understanding of fashion and who doesn't give importance to names or brands.
Someone who has more consideration for Gaspard "Yanukovitch" than for Gaspard Yurkievich himself.
Someone who's able to work with Perter Lindberg without putting a name on his face,
Someone who's able to shoot with Werner without being impressed...
Someone who disappeared of some fashion show films after final cut editing,

This person is thinking when it's necessary to think, walking when it's time to walk, smiling when it's time to smile, but sharing love when someone need it.

What you left behind ?

FUN

SHOWS

ELEGANCE

L'OREAL

THE DREAM TEAM

FLOWERS

GOOD PARTIES

MODELS BY ESSENCE

PHOTOGRAPHERS BY NATURE

"SHOW ME WHAT YOU GOT" EXPERIENCES

SUN

MMS (MEANINGLESS MODEL SLOGAN): OOOOOO YOU'RE GORGEOUS!!!!

What's coming next ???

In keeping going, you will touch the sky.

"O NO! I don't want to eat now!!!" she says

Don't change, stay who you are because ...

...You already are a superwomen.

Dolce Gabbana male shows : Mens on stage

2009-04-23T22:42:00.008-03:00

Dolce Gabbana is one of the rare fashion label which isn't killing mens Sex Appeal during Men's fashion week.
Who's better than two mens can dress mens ? Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are celebrating Men style.

Perfect-body shaped, the DG model brings us back to the 90's, when a wave of supermodels stormed in fashion industry.
Dolce and Gabbana is the label which gave an aura to male fashion shows.
They find their inspiration in their origins. Sicily is the background of DG collections. Then, it's giving an understanding of Male elegance. Allure, chic, DG mens are assuming their masculinity and wearing suit the perfect way.
It's not necessary to repeat that the label is leading the male fashion industry with modern clothes.
What would be Male fashion without Dominico Dolce and Stephano Gabbana ?
The italian collections are always Chic at first sight. Pneumatically shaped mens are running DG shows .
Classic tailor-made suits, sneakers, lizar or crocodile belts are giving personality to men outfits.
DG is a Manifesto. The duo is delivering us the secret for chic and casual at the same time.

Wearing clothes it's not only looking chic and shaped, it's being able to move in your body.
DG Mens can wear sneakers and having a Men attitude.
Always stylish and modern, the DG male fashion is a new ground of style and attitude in men style universe.
Once again, DG can be lauded and mens can proudly express their virility in a DG outfit !
Watch and learn !

Fashion : the Nip Tucking industry

2009-04-23T19:15:00.001-03:00

Fashion industry is hectic. Extremely creative, it's constantly launching new trends and continually making evolving fashionable labels.
If fashion were Human, she would be a women : Multi-tasks , she's able to lead different things at the same time. Fashion gives birth to a lot of labels and it's sacrilized. Most of people are respecting it, others are spitting on it.
If fashion were Human, she would probably be a women : People are very demanding with it : Fashion has to be beautiful and at the same time challenging.
Innovating! Always innovating!
Fashion got this high potential to embrace an everlasting beauty. It makes this myth real and it's the role of models, photographers, reporters, designers, make-up artists and others to ignite it.
Because there is no beauty without Art.
So, in the name of Art, beauty has to be protect! It seems to be very "Nip Tucked" ,but what's Victoria Secret show without all it's beautiful models? What would be Yves Saint Laurent collections without this unique sense of beauty? What's Louboutin label without it's beautiful shoes? As you know beauty is everywhere .

Fashion is managed and each leading actor who's part of it enlightens it's evolution. Trends are windy. Being fashionable means following the wind, being Chic means something else (maybe it's walking on the clouds and touching the sun). Being Chic it's being on the top of everything in the middle of nowhere and having a personal understanding of style.
When the industry is producing it's own rules, fashionable people attending a management-of-habits meeting. Fashion is the most powerful media of the world!! Chic is one of it's freelance reporter!
There is no beauty without darkness. There is no light without brightness , there is no rain without sun, or pain without gain!
Fashion is a Nip Tucking industry where ugly is flirting with beauty, bitchy with sneaky, hunger with candy, and edgy with lovely. At the end, passion is moderating everything. Perfection is the challenging rule but, NipTucking is the damaging tracking-side of the game. Fashion goal is doing and undoing , that's why the game is so entertaining,

Fashion is a mentoring leader. It's prescribe what's IN and what's totally OUT. Then, there is a very thin borderline between free beauty and prescribed ugly!

Adopt Genevieve style !!

2009-04-23T10:06:00.000-03:00

Genevieve Jones is one of those designers who are giving a real meaning to fashion and style. This funky girl launched a kaleidoscopic collection of accessories. Floral-splashed rings are blooming in the middle of lollipops clutches. Rond hand bags are like candy boxes and everybody is loving it. The almond-eyes designer seduced upper East side fashionistas crew. Totally involved in fashion industry she reveals creativity through a stunning line of jewels and bags. Already adopted by the American Vogue, she has got a real understanding of all things chic. She has Anouck Lepere, Julia Roitfeld, Sean lennon on speed dial and she's a front-row girls in so many shows ( Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen...).
Jewelry and hand bags found a new reason to be with Geneviève, and she's totally dedicated to it. She finds inspiration in all her exotic trips. Those accessories are shaped like Maldivian flowers, and they are perfectly matching this season, to highlight a classical style. It's a MUST for all fashionistas closets. Beauty is on nature and Genevieve is revealing the best side of it!!!

Genevieve Jones style ( on the left)

Genevieve Jones bag, fringe bag, Kate love it

Jewels

Hand bags ( clutches)

Silver snail ring

JT de la mode : Blackploitation trends report

2009-04-21T12:26:00.002-03:00

Culture : Blaxploitation Style

Blaxploitation comic

The Blaxploitation is a film genre which appeared in USA in the early 70's. During this time of segregation films didn't targeted Black people.It's was more cliche stories. Blaxploitation impulsed movie revolution. It aimed at giving Black people real identities in films . The Blaxploitation changed the representation of Black people in movies. It created new films in the 70's (Trouble men, Shaft, Cotton comes to Harlem...).
Whereas Hollywood movies represented Black people only as dancers, singers or burglars, Blaxploitation brought new outstanding Black heroes. Black leading roles are born. It ignited a new wave of general creativity. It was a kind of Black "Nouvelle Vague".
What started with movies turned into a real lifestyle.
Indeed, Blaxploitation influenced fashion style: Afro hairs, colors, crazy make-up, over-sized glasses, skinny legs pants, colored jackets... It built a very recognizable style which influenced a lot fashion industry. Different artists contributed to Blaxploitation ( Supremes, Sun Ra, Marvin Gaye, Barry White). It changed scripts , mentalities, fashion and music too. It started with politic and it spread all the different level of art in society.
Understanding the impact of Blaxploitation on a large range of artistic trends is important.
Blaxploitation time is also Disco time and consequently a very creative period for amazing shoes. Today's Haute couture designers shoes, find their artistic roots on this time.

Blaxploitation films have been inspired by Kung fu. Most of Blaxploitation fight scenes are reproducing Kung fu gestures. Blaxploitation is built in reaction of Black segregation, but it find its roots on extra influences such as Asian Kung Fu.

Blaxploitation inspired fashion

André J

Flashy clothes, sequin bags, tight stretch top

Gaultier show
Autumn-Winter 2009

Afros are weared with flat berets

Grace Jones

Afro Hat

Naomie Campbell

Xuli Bet adopted the funky vibe of this period, t shirt, dresses reveal this period

Blaxploitation inspired cartoon

As you understood Blaxploitation time was the Disco time. Music, dance, clothes were part of the lifestyle, it's not only the case for Black people it's the case for White too. Nevertheless this period was impulsed by a lot of Black artists. Many Black artists ( singers...) organized in a certain way the Establishment of codes which have been subsequently included in daily habits ( fashion).

Blaxploitation music

Model talk : Alec Wek

Alec Wek is one of those models who looks like nobody else. She has her face, she has her skin color, she has very short hairs, and she's Black ! Alec will never be the girl next door, and that's one of the reason of her success. Some people say that she's ugly, others don' t even know her name.
Actually there is a movement which claims that: "Black is beautiful"! Of course it is! Now it is not necessary to precise it, but back in the time it was.
"Black is beautiful" is a cultural movement which aimed at showing that Afro natural features aren't ugly. John Sweat Rock (abolitionist), was the first one to tell the slogan in 1858. He launched a dynamic movement in Afro American culture which encourages Black to keep their natural hair and to stop lightening or bleaching their skin. The "Black is beautiful" movement is responsible of the success of Afro hairstyle.
Alec is the perfect match for "Black is beautiful" state of mind. She has got this romantic side which makes her face unique. She kept her originally beauty and she highlights it with her charisma. Now she's telling us a short story.

The iconoclast and visionary Sun Ra ( 1914-1993)

The story of a fashion style

Blaxploitation had consequences on music industry. New talents nourished this times creativity. Sun Ra was one of them he had his own music, his own style and a real sense of fashion. He launched the trend ! Non conformism and sensible to colors, he is totally included in Blaxploitation trends. This pianist and jazz composer has a very cosmic universe. Totally flirting with stars, his style has no limits.He found it on the moon for being sure that nobody will copy it. He even dressed his orchestra, who has such a nice style!
That's the first vocation of fashion: helping the expression of personalities.Very inspired by Egypt he didn't knew that a couple of top ten designers later, it would be trendy to cloth his way.

Sun Ra

Sun Ra

Vivienne Westwood style : she's definitely less crazy attitude than Sun Ra !!

When you will watch the following video, you will see that Sun Ra had the Galliano style and Vivienne Westwood's one in the same body. He knew that Egypt and crazy make up was trendy!

Dior fashion show inspired by Egypt

Dior fashion show

Final of Galliano Sun Ra isn't the only one being inspired by the moon...

Dior fashion show

Part II

Art is universal.Fashion too, it's bigger than skin colors and nationalities.

Tendances don't have colours. This Black fashion report pretends to make people understand that creativity can be found everywhere.
Fashion isn't a closed box. It's an ocean with a lot of rivers. Each worldwide influence has a reason to be. Putting them together really makes sense. It's a way to transform fashion and to make things bigger and more creative.
Today's fashion industry has to prioritize the exchange of talents in order to renew it. Fashion trends evolution is guaranteed by mixing influences and building something new.

Le JT de la mode: The end of Supermodels ?

2009-04-19T20:13:00.019-03:00

90's models Time

What's the reason for the drastic change of supermodels from 90's to 2009?

In 90's, models had perfect shaped body . Today, we can't say the same thing for all of them (except for the Victoria Secret models) .
Models are more skinny. They have to obey different rules. Modeling industry is turning a new leaf of it's history, models are the first to undergo it .

The Dream Model Team of the 90's was built on Charisma, Attitude and Power. So, what happened to today's models?

They named Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Stella Tennant, Carla Bruni , Estelle Hallyday, Linda Evangelista, Stephanie Seymour... They were Queens of the stage and highlighted this modeling time.
Now, time changed and modeling industry is evolving , No boobs, No hips , early teens models . It's another time for fashion but it's important to go back to the 90's to commemorate this sweet time.
The 90's was the time when designer accepted models express their Charisma . Today, Fashion industry silence models personality in order to make the audience more focused on clothes. Choice is made! This strategy contributes to the end of supermodels. Before it was commonly accepted to put different body shaped models in the same show. Now , models are standardized. They look the same, a few of them are outgoing but their body is standardized. There is no place for individuality.

Before supermodels were leading a lot of different activities : they were involved in fashion industry, music, cinema, and they had more personal relationships with designers.

Personality were important! In the 90's being a supermodel meant having a powerful image which ruled all the society. They were mentally involved in fashion industry. They were definitely Queens of the Stages but Queens of society too ! People had respect for them. they made people dreaming. Nowadays when people are speaking about modeling they are immediately thinking about anorexia .Relationship between models and society changed . If models are only reduced to anorexic girls it's difficult to make them leading society.

Alive and dynamic, 90's supermodels were Running the show. At this time, models had a place. They were like fashion Divas .

Those top models had a real sense of walk : Turning , Smiling , Keeping their body in a powerful attitude, making poses... They were performing clothes . It wasn't only about walking, it was more about personality and charisma. Each model looked different. This isn't the same process today.

90's models talk

News :

Today's models

Today's society don't really give a space for supermodels. They are not existing in the same way than before. It means that when they are on the top they can' t be sure to keep it during a lot of different seasons. Today fashion industry's turn-over isn't helping building long lasting fashion career as in the 90's. Actresses are new actors of fashion industry : they are starred into fashion campaigns . So , models have to share with actresses high paid fashion jobs.
Fashion brands need more icons, than models. Star system makes actresses more glamour than models. That's the reason why an actress can represent Chanel or Dior label. It's more profitable for a magazine to put a leading actress than a good performing model.

Fashion is moving, modeling industry too. Top models career is getting shorter. You can be on top during three seasons and after nothing . Each year is revealing a new girl. Then , she is considered as the "IT" girl . What is "IT" one day, isn't the day after. There are A-list models such as Agyness, Coco Rochas, Lara Stone, Iman Chanel, Jordan Deyn . Nevertheless today's turn-over implies shorter careers.

When models as Kate Moss or Naomie are still leading the fashion scene , today's A-list models are fighting for being on the top during 4 or 5 seasons. It's not models who don't want to be supermodels, it's not Bookers who are not helping girls neither. So what's the main explanation?

It 's because of Marketing of course ! Today's fashion industry is proposing a large range of fashion products; There are more collections than before, products cycles are shorter, and it's the same in modeling industry. More collections, more products, so more models and less long-lasting supermodels.
Innovation is the key of today's industry ! It's Marketing Time and it has consequences on modeling industry.

When a girl is doing a top-designer show during one season, it doesn't mean that the season after she will do it again. Consumers are zapping, it implies short life products cycles (what applies for clothes adapts to models) . Then, it's necessary always innovating. Models are subject to fashion products rules and they adapts to marketing requests .
Today shows are bigger than ever, there isn't intimacy of 90's fashion label anymore! It's not rare to meet models who did a lot of Top Designers shows but who a
are not considered as supermodels. They are good performing models, but not supermodels.
You can do Lanvin, Prada, Vuitton shows and not being a top model !

Before it wasn't the case if you were able to work each season for the same designer you were a top model for fashion industry. Today there are a lot of models who are used to do a lot of Top designers shows during the fashion week and they are still not considered as supermodel by the Industry. So what's the matter? How could it be possible to run frequently into Dior, Givenchy , Chanel shows and not being considered as a supermodel. One of the reason is that so much models are in this case, so it's not easy to give the supermodel status to each of them.

Modeling industry is evolving in the steps of marketing. In 90's , castings were organized by fashion designers himself , today private agencies are most of the time in charge of fashion labels castings . Those private agencies don't try to make things new, they follow trends instead of breaking it.

Big fashion groups are born in the 90's. It started to be the end of a time ! With those big fashion groups ( LVMH, PPR) , the industry became more concerned by marketing than ever. A new leaf was turned. Now the intimacy of fashion label has been replaced by financial-marketing concerns. Brands are part of international quoted groups. Tradition and family values had to deal with marketing and finance. It's a new dimension of fashion industry, it had repercussions on modeling and it explains today's industry.
What started as a fashion family turned to be a fashion industry.
When today's models are going in castings they have to go through more steps than before for being booked. Money, high designers turn-over, marketing concerns, slow down the process. It increase models competition too. Before models were working as a team, I am not saying that they were no competition but they were used to work in a family structure. Today there is no place for family values, no time for that , today the issue is different. So different concerns, different values. I had the opportunity to speak about that with a former model of this time who told me : " You know, I am amazed by today's models mentality before we were working all together and we shared castings and jobs" . I told her that time changed. Now models are not sharing castings except with their friend ( and it's even rare) . Today we assist to a kind of sneaky warrior between models. It's totally killing the soul of this job. Modeling is a Team job. There is no photoshoot without a photographer, a designer , or a make up artist. At the same time there is no fashion show with one model only.
Team working values is killed by the pressure the industry is putting on models.
Team working value is killed by the fact that it's too difficult for being friend with those who potentially can get the job you want.

It's the end of Top models and it's the beginning of A-list fashion icons. Top models became "Minute Models". They are on the top faster, but they are collapsing at the same speed. Rare are those who have a long time career.

When models are getting thinner and thinner

Anna Wintour declared about that :
"I wish I could say the same for the young women who were just on the runways at the New York fall collections. Overall, they were pale and thin, and entirely lacking in the joyfulness and charm that once defined the supermodel. This, of course, is not their fault: Designers now near-uniformly favor a non-vivacious, homogenous ideal."

We celebrated 90's model, but we can applause today's models too. Modeling industry tougher than before. It's a daily struggle to assume who you are in modeling industry. Models have to deal with continually evolving drastic rules and they're not made for making their life easier. Nevertheless they handle it because it's their job.

When being skinny and Beautiful isn't enough , what models who are dreaming of a supermodel career have to do ?

Does common people know the name of those Supermodels ?

Le JT de la mode : Breaking Fashion taboos !

2009-04-19T10:32:00.005-03:00

News

DO and DON T's in runway !

Do's
Being model is a daily hard-working job. You already know that attitude, glamour, respect are the keys of your success. Some models of the crew forget a couple of rules which can contribute to ruin their career. Models are not perfect, they have their own fault and we excuse them for that. After all they are human!

DON'Ts

Beauty

Beauty isn't skinny !!

Fashion industry is reporting trends and deciding what's fashionable or not. Currently everybody is agree to confirm that today's models are Tall-And-Slim or Tall-And-Skinny, it depends. Some of them make us dreaming and they are doing their job very well. Body is their job tool. Todays, there are some eternal debates about "too-skinny-models". We know that those girls are applying designers rules. Indeed, it's necessary to check who is truly responsible of it before incriminating models.
To make a long story short, we just decided to show that beauty doesn't really implies being skinny. It's feeling good inside and it makes all the difference. It's all about confidence.
Velvet d'Amour is a good example of it. She's an" over-sized model" but she assumes it and does her job with glamour and elegance. She gives us an understanding of fashion industry limits. Starving girls please take notes!

Fashion date

Anna Wintour

Movie
The September Issue

This documentary is a fashion testimony of the most powerful magazine of the world. Backstage are analysed under the eye of R.J Cutler. It's an understanding of the daily basis work tool of the US leading magazine.

Le JT de la mode: Make it real !

2009-04-18T23:10:00.004-03:00

Beauty Make-up lessons with Path Mc Grath

Pat Mac Grath is one of the best make-up artist of today's fashion. So, she's handling make up for the best fashion shows. CEO of beauty, she manages it. Creativity with a high level of technicity makes her essential. She's everywhere : Vuitton, Chanel, Galliano...
"Smooky eyes", exotic sight, natural looks, shiny mouths...
A couple of liners later, she has to gloss models lips.Her agenda is full of colors, powders, lips sticks, pencils. She schedules designers beauty plans. Her fingers are gold-made and everything she's touching becomes beautiful. She tells us stories with make-up and ignite our dreams. She's managing models like a school teacher: Sit down! Look up! Look down! Close your eyes! She gives love to mouths and eyes. Like a designers, she draws the lines of beauty. The renown make-up artist finishes designers silhouettes and improves natural beauty of models. Pat is the Alchemist of fashion and she's flirting with the stars. She gives us beauty advices and it's a great lesson of elegance and style. For all those who didn't knew the way to make-up, please take notes of her advises. Professionalism on a smiley face are giving all the grace to this artist. Pat we thank you!

Sci fi fashion The end of human modeling contests ?

What would happen, if human modeling contests disappeared ? Technology probably would invent a virtual version of it ! Supposing it's dramatically the case, what American Next Top Model might look like ? Just make the video play, and you will get an idea of this mad story!

Casting 60's top model : Twiggy

Back to the 60's! This time had it's own models. One of them was named Twiggy. Blond hair London native girl, she embodied the Swinging London time. Skinny, she was successful. Four years of career didn't provided her to go through the time! She was the Kate Moss of the 60's.

Fashion portrait Dating the king Talley !

André Léon Talley is the most known fashion style setters. Editor-at-large in Vogue US, he has got his own style. Six feets tall, he is the worldwide voice of trends. He explains that he got this unerring sense of fashion from his grandmother. He has been mentored by Andy Warhol who launched his career. Dedicated to fashion he is used to work with Anna Wintour. Rare are the front row where the editor isn't wearing his outrageous couture coat or hat!! He is the most recognizable editor in the world and don't ask him to change! Anna Windtour tried and she failed! She might have organized an intervention to make him loosing weight but the Man has his own identity and he makes the difference! Supremely confident he didn't hesitated to blame designers who don't take colored models in fashion shows.
André alias ALT, worked in the best leading fashion magazines. W, Interview, Women Wear Daily, US Vogue are on his resume. Commentator of Oscars, he has got the most successful designers on speed dial. When talent is meeting audacity, the consequences are a six-feet-tall-Black-guy who doesn't give a fuck to fashion Establishment!

Le JT de la mode : Gaultier, le terrible !

2009-04-18T18:57:00.002-03:00

C'est au début des années 80 que le créateur rencontre un succès fulgurant dans l'univers de la mode. Avec sa vision avant-gardiste, il impose un style et des codes. L'homme objet (boy toy) devient tendance. Celui-ci porte des jupes et des marinières. Le créateur devient alors l'enfant terrible de la mode, bousculant les tabous et les conventions.

La marinière est une des pièces phares de ses collections. Il la conjugue à l'infini. Elle devient l'un des codes de la marque. Gaultier brouille les limites entre le féminin et le masculin. L'absence de genre devient la règle , la frontière en est l' exception .

Gaultier "crossgenderise". Les personnages sont hermaphrodites. Les icônes féminines de cette campagne publicitaire portent leur fémininité tout en étant androgynes. Elles sont à l'image de l'homme. Ce dernier se caresse avec douceur et sensualité.
Mélange des genres et audace donnent le tempo. L'homme incarne le marin de Gaultier, et la femme est à la fois celle du sexe faible ( très blanche) mais aussi celle qui assume son côté masculin.
Le designer réactualise les académismes de l'histoire de la peinture. Dans les représentations picturales classiques, la femme se devait d'être très blanche, alors que l'homme était toujours représenté plus bronzé. Gaultier met alors en lumière deux femmes: l'une très blanche et donc académique, l'autre plus bronzée qui fait figure de personnage feminin-masculin. La sensualité des gestes est empreinte de l'univers féminin. Les formes androgynes des personnages annoncent le règne du masculin. L'équilibre entre les deux mondes se tient. Chaque univers s'imprègne l'un de l'autre pour traduire le flottement par le dialogue des genres. La sensualité s'universalise.

Représentations classiques de la femme et de l'homme

Scénographie : Le bordel chic!

Collections Prêt-à-porter femmes 2009/2010.
Le créateur impose son style : il choisit le bordel parisien des années Folles comme décors.
Les mannequins se transforment alors en "filles de joie". Les silhouettes sont chic et provocantes. Gaultier salue la démesure. Il met en scène l'obscène et se joue des conventions théâtrales. La scénographie est étudiée avec précision. Les collants sont en résille. Les femmes s'androgénysent. Les filles de joie chuchotent, complotent, et boursicotent...La bande-son se prête au jeu. "Roxane you don't have to sell your body to the night"nous dit la voix off, pourtant Gaultier semble nous dire le contraire !
Filles de joie par allure, mais résolument chic dans la démesure. Les décors sont fidèles à la réalité historique. Le créateur nous projette dans un univers où l'absence de règles fait partie du jeu. Quelques fleurs ajoutent du romantisme aux scènes. Portées comme des fouets, elles poussent à l'extrême les frontières des jeux érotiques. Jean Paul Gaultier boute les conventions hors du tableau.
Lorsque certaines s'ébattent, d'autres mannequins se débattent sur le podium. La femme n'est plus du sexe faible. Elle est puissante, décomplexée et joueuse. Elle empreinte le sexe de l'homme pour mieux s'installer dans ses bottes ! Le "G" de génie plane sur la collection, mais c'est sous l'empire du "X" que le défilé trouve sa dynamique. Imprimés, bretelles, résilles, sangles, ont adopté la lettre. Le "X" se quadrille et fait alors office de fenêtre. Serait-ce une invitation au voyeurisme? La lettre révèle d' autres détails plus intimes tels que la peau, les jambes. Gaultier leur redonne alors toute leur noblesse.